Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
You can see all of the best scenery at Plitvice in just a three- to four-hour hike. While you
can give yourself longer here, it's not necessary. Other trails pale in comparison to this con-
venient main route.
Since it takes some time to get here (about two hours by car or bus from Zagreb), the
most sensible plan is to spend the night in the area (either at one of the park's hotels, or at
a guest house nearby). If you're coming from the north (e.g., Ljubljana), you can take the
train to Zagreb in the morning, spend a few hours seeing the Croatian capital, then take the
bus (generally no buses after about 16:00) or pick up a rental car and drive to Plitvice in the
late afternoon. To avoid crowds, get up early and hit the trails (ideally by 8:30); by early
afternoon, you'll be ready to move on (south to the coast, or north to Zagreb). Two nights
and a full day at Plitvice is probably overkill for all but the most avid hikers.
Crowd-Beating Tips:
Plitvice is swamped with international tour groups, many of
whom aren't shy about elbowing into position for the best photos. While it's impossible to
avoid crowds entirely, you'll get at least some of the park to yourself if you hike early or
late. The park's trails are most crowded between 10:00 and 15:00. I try to hit the trails by
8:30 and begin with the Lower Lakes; that way, the crowds are moving in just as I'm fin-
ishing up. If arriving in the afternoon, starting the hike after 15:00 also works well (though
off-season, be careful to check when buses and boats stop running). The Upper Lakes are
often less crowded later in the day, especially in the afternoon.
Plitvice Lakes National Park, a few miles from the Bosnian border, is located on the old
highway between Zagreb and Split. While driving is the easiest option, it's also reachable
by bus.
IftakingabustoPlitvice,confirmscheduleslocallyoronline,andalsoconfirmthatyour
bus will actually stop at Plitvice. The park's official bus stop is along the main road, about a
5- to 10-minute walk from the hotels.
From Zagreb
By
car,
Plitvice is two hours south of Zagreb on the old highway #1 (a.k.a. D-1). Leaving
Zagreb, take the A-1 expressway south for about an hour, exiting at Karlovac (marked for
1
and
Plitvice
). From here, D-1 takes you directly south about another hour to the park (see
“En Route,” later). If you're staying at the park hotels, you can park for free at the hotel lot;
to park at the lots at Entrance 1 or Entrance 2, you'll have to pay. For information about
driving onward from Plitvice, see “Route Tips for Drivers” at the end of this chapter.
