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$$ Sobe Zagreb 17, run by mom-and-daughter team Rumica and Irena, rents seven
stylish rooms with colorful and cute decor in a grubby but wonderfully located building,
just a few minutes' walk from Gradec, the Tkal č i ć eva restaurant street, and Jela č i ć Square
(Db-€60-100 depending on size and demand, Qb apartment-€120, no breakfast, cash only,
air-con, free Wi-Fi, Radi ć eva 22, mobile 091-170-0000, www.sobezagreb17.com ,
info@sobezagreb17.com ).
$$ InZagreb, run by Ivana and Ksandro Kova č i ć , rents nine mostly one-bedroom apart-
ments in various buildings around the city. While locations vary, most are in untouristy urb-
an zones within a 10- to 20-minute walk of the main square. The units are nicely equipped
and come with several welcoming, creative touches. Visit their website, find the apartment
that appeals to you, and make a reservation. Clearly communicate your arrival time, and
they'll pick you up at the train or bus station (no extra charge) or at the airport (150 kn ex-
tra)andtakeyoutoyourhome-away-from-homeinZagreb(Db-€65-89dependingonapart-
ment and location, no 1-night stays, no breakfast, kitchenettes, air-con, free Wi-Fi, laundry
machine,mobile091-652-3201, www.inzagreb.com , info@inzagreb.com ).Ivana,alicensed
guide, also offers a variety of custom tours around town.
$$ Hotel Central hasacommunist-holdover vibe,disinterested staff,and76overpriced,
overly perfumed, but reasonably modern rooms. I'd consider this only if you value its
proximity to the train station, which sits just across the street (Sb-€70, larger Sb-€75, Db
with one big bed-€95, twin Db-€105, Tb-€135, rates can flex with demand, air-con, elevat-
or, free guest computer and Wi-Fi, Branimirova 3, tel. 01/484-1122, www.hotel-central.hr ,
info@hotel-central.hr ).
$ Hotel Ilica isa15-minutewalkorshorttramridefromJela č i ć Square.Thehotel'sidio-
syncratic sense of style—with faux chandeliers and Roman busts that Liberace would find
gaudy—helps compensate for its dull urban neighborhood. It's set back on its own court-
yard with a garden behind it, making it an oasis of quiet in the heart of the city. With 24
rooms,fourapartments,andastaffthatpridesitselfonitspersonalservice,thisquirkyplace
is an excellent value if you don't mind commuting to your sightseeing by tram (Sb-€46,
Db-€59, larger twin Db-€79, big apartment-€119, 10 percent discount for Rick Steves read-
erswhobookdirect,air-con,freeguestcomputerandWi-Fi,off-streetcourtyardparking-39
kn/€5, Ilica 102, two tram stops from Jela č i ć Square at Britanski trg stop, tel. 1/377-7522,
www.hotel-ilica.hr , info@hotel-ilica.hr ).
$ Shappy Hostel —slick, shabby-chic, and modern—is the most appealing of Zagreb's
many new design hostels. Surrounding a courtyard in a very central, urban-feeling area, it
has 41 beds in 13 rooms, including 9 private, hotelesque doubles that are worth consid-
ering even for non-hostelers. The hip and funky bar in the courtyard is also open to non-
guests (bunk in 4- to 10-bed dorm-€17-25 depending on size and season, Db-€60/€55, no
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