ZAGREB - Croatia and Slovenia - page 97

carefully regulated, with routine medical examinations for the working girls. Legally, only
a woman (over age 30) could own and operate a brothel. Locals note, with some irony, that
the balconies on the opposite side of these houses of ill repute—which we'll see in a mo-
ment—face the stern spires of the cathedral.
Turn left, walking along the row of old houses (and noticing the remains of the old
Gradec town wall on your left), then turn right down the stairs. You've just dropped down
into the middle of Zagreb's most appealing street, Tkal č i ć eva. Do a slow spin to savor this
in-love-with-life drag. This traffic-free street combines some of the most atmospheric old
homes of Zagreb with some of its most enticing eateries and people-watching. (For starters,
you're literally surrounded by tables for the recommended Pivnica Medvedgrad brewpub.)
If you need a break from sightseeing, Tkal č i ć eva is just the ticket: Nurse a coffee, beer,
or meal anywhere along this street (I've listed several recommendations under “Eating in
Zagreb,” later).
If you stood here 200 years ago, you'd be washed away by a rushing river that separated
Gradec (behind you) and Kaptol (in front of you). In the Middle Ages, the two towns were
at odds and sometimes fought. (“Downriver” from here is a cross-street that's still called
Krvavi Most—“Blood Bridge.”) But in 1850, after the towns had long since set aside their
differences, they merged to become Zagreb. The polluted, stinky river had become a nuis-
ance, so they diverted its flow and covered over the valley to create Tkal č i ć eva.
Turn right and enjoy a stroll down Tkal č i ć eva (toward the onion-domed church tower of
Holy Mary Church). You'll pass (on the right) the balconies of the brothels we saw earlier,
thenafineparkontherightwithagenteelladypreparedforrain.Justbeyondthepark,next
to the door for the recommended Cookie Factory, is the Mars plaque for the solar system
sculpture. Directly across the street, walk up the hill toward the cathedral towers (on Skal-
inska, passing outdoor restaurant tables).
Kaptol
As you walk uphill, you're entering Kaptol, the second of medieval Zagreb's twin towns.
At the top of the street, turn right and go down the stairs to find Zagreb's lively-in-the-
morning market (dolac). If you're here at prime time, browse the market's double-decker
delights (noticing that the meat and cheese halls are below your feet—use the stairs or elev-
ator in the blocky white building to get there). For pointers on what to see at the market, see
“Sights in Zagreb.”
When you're done at the market, go through the gap between the buildings toward the
cathedral spires.Crossingthesquare,youcanenterCroatia'smostimportanthouseofwor-
ship (described later, under “Sights in Zagreb”). From here, you can head downhill one
block to Jela č i ć Square—where our walk began.