ZAGREB - Croatia and Slovenia - page 91

Kaptol, and the cathedral (you can't miss its huge, pointy, Neo-Gothic spires—visible from
virtually everywhere in Zagreb). And if you just need a break, several fine cafés ring the
square.Forthebestviewintown,youcanpay20kntoascendtothe “Zagreb Eye” viewing
platform at the top of the tallest glass skyscraper at the bottom of the square (ride elevator
to 16th floor, daily 10:00-23:00, restaurant and café, www.zagrebeye.hr ).
Taking the small street behind Jela č i ć andthen goingalittle tothe left wouldlead youto
the market (best in the morning—depending on the time, consider visiting the market now,
using the tips on here , before continuing on the walk) and the enticing café-and-restaurant
street, Tkal č i ć eva (lively any time of day or night; we'll circle back here later on the walk).
On the left side of this small street (still on the square), pause at the modern building with
an arcade of blocky pillars to take in a creative bit of public art. Look closely at the first
pillar and find the small silver plaque with a little ball labeled Venus (about eight feet up,
facingthebuilding).Thisisonepieceofthe10-partworkcalled “Zagreb's Solar System.”
Its center lies a short walk away, two blocks in front of Jela č i ć (on Bogovi ć eva street): a
large spherical sculpture called The Grounded Sun, made in 1971. Decades later, a different
artistdecidedtopiggybackonthatidea,andcreatedninenewsculptures,togethertitled Nine
Views. Scattered around the city are each of the nine planets—completely to scale (both the
size of each planet—from the size of a marble to the size of a basketball—and each one's
distancefromthe“sun”).Theartist,DavorPreis,didtheprojectinsecret,soZagrebianshad
to seek out each of the nine planets on their own, in a kind of citywide scavenger hunt.
But for now, head up to the hill called Gradec.

Walk from Jelačić Square to Gradec
Go a long block down busy Ilica street (to the left as you face Jela č i ć ), then enter the big
“Octagon” shopping gallery on the left (at #5, enter under Privedna Banka Zagreb sign).
This was the ultimate in iron-and-glass shopping elegance a century ago, and still features
a few of the city's top shops (including Croata, the tie store that loves to explain how Croa-
tians invented the necktie; for the whole story, see here ) .
Walk all the way through the gallery, exiting into the inviting café-lined square called
Trg Petra Preradovi ć a. It hosts a flower market all day, and inviting al fresco cafés
throughoutthedayandintothenight.Surveyyouroptionsforacoffeebreak,thenturnright
and head back out to Ilica street, then turn left and continue the way you were headed.
After another block, cross the tram tracks and turn right up Tomi ć a, where you'll see a
small funicular (ZET Uspinja č a) crawling up the hill. Dating from the late 19th century,
this funicular is looked upon fondly by Zagrebians—both as a bit of nostalgia and as a way
to avoid some steps. You can walk up if you want, but the ride is more fun and takes only
55seconds.Locals claim thisisthe“shortest funicular intheworld”(4kn,validate ticket in
yellow box before you board, leaves every 10 minutes daily 6:30-22:00).

Walk from Jelačić Square to Gradec