Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
lously, since they rebuilt it with stone instead of wood. Largely as a result of Ptuj's frequent
fires, its rival Maribor (to the north) gradually supplanted it as the region's main center of
commerceandwinemaking.Ptuj'sfatewassealedacenturylater,whentheraillinebetween
ViennaandTriestewasroutedthroughMaribor.TodayMariborhas10timesasmanypeople
as Ptuj—and 10 times the industry, congestion, and urban gloominess. Hmm...maybe Ptuj
got the better end of the deal, after all.
Ptuj Cellar (Ptujska Klet)
Ptuj is highly regarded for its wines, and this is the main facility for the major Pullus brand.
Simple wine was produced in this region as far back as the Celts. The Romans advanced
the art, only to have it disappear in the Dark Ages, then be revived in the 13th century by
Minorite monks. Today this enormous cellar, branching out under the Old Town, continues
thisproudtradition—andholdsastaggering1.3milliongallonsofwine(about85percentof
it white). The cellar is also home to a “wine archive” with bottles dating back to 1917. This
precious archive survived World War II because it was sealed off from the Nazis behind a
giant barrel.
The winemakers sell a wide variety of bottles (€3-15). They're proudest of their award-
winning Sauvignon Blanc (€6/bottle), but their best seller—at a million bottles a year—is a
local wine called Haložan (a semi-dry blend of four whites, €3/bottle).
Tours and Tastings: Cellar tours and wine-tastings are possible if you call ahead (Mon-
Sat 9:00-17:00, call Tanja at mobile 041-394-896). While these are often available in Eng-
lish, you may wind up joining a German- or Slovene-language tour. Either way, you'll pay
€9 for the experience. The cellar tour comes with some hokey lighting effects and is fol-
lowed by an even hokier audio-visual presentation during the tasting.
Shop: If you just want to pick up a bottle, stop by their wine shop, around the corner
from the cellar (Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00, Sat 9:00-12:00, closed Sun, Vinarski trg 1, tel. 02/
787-9827, www.pullus.si ) .
Minorite Church and Monastery (Minoritski Samostan)
This church, dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul, was one of the only buildings in town des-
troyed in World War II. (The Allies believed that the occupying Nazis were storing muni-
tions here.) Only the foundation at the back end of the church survived, and it was left in
ruinsfordecades.In1989,friarscelebratedtheir750thanniversaryinPtujbyrebuildingthe
back part of the church. About a decade later, the front half was also reconstructed, and the
statues in the niches above the door were replaced only a few years ago. Step into the con-
temporary, minimalist interior, with its modern stained-glass windows and Stations of the
Cross. At the altar are the original statues that once adorned the church facade. Go through
the door on the right into the peaceful cloister. A handful of friars can still be seen roaming
these tranquil halls, and you're welcome to stroll here, too.
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