Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Around Flores
San Miguel & Tayazal
Covering the western end of the San Miguel peninsula, reached by frequent ferries from
Flores, are the remains of
Tayazal
(admission Q5; 6am-6pm)
, among the last of the Maya cap-
itals. It was settled by the Itzáes, refugees from the destroyed city of Chichén Itzá in Yu-
catán, who held out against the Spanish until 1697. Scholars concur that Tayazal was actu-
ally centered on the island of Flores, but remnants of the Itzáes' reign are scattered around
the peninsula. The chiefly Classic-era mounds are overgrown by vegetation, and a few
pockmarked stelae have been recovered. The real draw, though, is the chance to wander
the forested spine of the peninsula, taking in panoramic views of the lake.
NIGHT OF THE SKULLS
San José is a special place to be on the night of October 31, when perfectly preserved human skulls, normally
housed in the church, are paraded around town on a velvet pillow followed by devotees in traditional dress, carry-
ing candles. Throughout the night, the skulls make visits to predetermined houses, where blessings are sought, of-
ferings made and a feast eaten.
Colectivos
(shared taxis or minibuses) cost Q5 per person and make the five-minute
crossing to San Miguel village from the northeast side of Flores whenever they have a
boatload. San Miguel itself is a quiet, slow-moving place. To reach the ruins, walk 250m
to the left along the shore from where the boat drops you, then turn up the paved street to
the right. After 300m, turn left at the 'Playa' sign, passing a football field on your right.
About another 600m on, a trail on the right leads to
Playa El Chechenal
, a swimming beach
with a dock extending over turquoise waters and a few picnic tables (admission Q5).
Continue west another 300m to reach the main entrance to the site. From here it's a pre-
cipitous climb up the hillside - actually one of the pyramids of ancient Tayazal - to reach
El Mirador del Rey Canek
, an observation point with 360-degree views around Lago de Petén
Itzá. The archaeological site can be visited by circling round the base of the tower and
skirting the lake back toward the village. Around 800m further, go left up a hill (past a
building foundation), then follow a dirt road left to reach the Gran Plaza, where you'll
find some weathered stelae dating from the late Classic period.
