Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
morants and herons. Within reach of the waterways are five archaeological sites and a pair
of jungle-hideaway accommodations.
What we know of the history of these archaeological sites has mostly been unraveled
by archaeologists since the late 1980s. Dos Pilas was founded about AD 640 by a prince
who left Tikal and later defeated it in two wars, capturing its ruler Nuun Ujol Chaak
(Shield Skull) in 679, according to inscriptions at the site. Dos Pilas' second and third
rulers carried out monumental building programs, waged wars of conquest and came to
dominate most of the territory between the Pasión and Chixoy rivers, but in AD 761 their
vassal Tamarindito rebelled and killed the fourth ruler, causing the Dos Pilas nobility to
relocate to the naturally fortified site of Aguateca, which was already functioning as a
twin capital. Aguateca in turn was abandoned in the early 9th century, around the same
time as three defensive moats were cut across the neck of the Chiminos peninsula on the
edge of Laguna Petexbatún. Archaeologists surmise that Punta de Chiminos was the last
refuge of the Petexbatún dynasty founded at Dos Pilas.
Aguateca
The ruins of Aguateca stand on a hilltop at the far south end of Laguna Petexbatún. De-
fended by cliffs and split by a ravine, the city enjoyed military successes (including one
over nearby Ceibal) up until about AD 735, according to data gleaned from carved stelae.
The site is both the easiest to access and most immediately impressive within reach of
Sayaxché.
It's fairly certain that rulers from Dos Pilas abandoned that city for the better-fortified
Aguateca around AD 761, and that the city was finally overrun by unknown attackers
around 790 - a wealth of arrowheads and skeletons have been found dating back to that
time. The city was abandoned shortly afterwards.
A five-minute walk from the dock is the visitor center. Rangers can guide you round the
site in about 1½ hours (a small tip is in order). Two main groups feature well-restored
structures: the
Grupo del Palacio
where the ruler lived, and the
Plaza Mayor
(Main Plaza) to its
south, where fiberglass copies of stelae showing finely attired rulers stand beside the
fallen originals. The two groups are connected by a causeway over the ravine.
From the visitor center, you can skirt the cliff wall north to reach a
mirador
(lookout)
with views over the rivers and swamplands toward the east. The trail then turns left and
descends into the ravine, continuing 100m between two sheer limestone walls, then
climbs back up to emerge onto the Grupo del Palacio. Proceed through the palatial com-
