Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
There's a large scale model of the site by the entrance. The ceremonial core of the city
covers three hills, connected over steep ravines by the original causeways. Smallish
temples, many of them covered with jungle, surround two principal groups, A and D. In
front of some temples, and standing seemingly alone on paths, are magnificent stelae,
their intricate carvings still in excellent condition. It takes about two hours to explore the
site. Bring mosquito repellent.
Most of the stelae appear at Grupo A , made up of three plazas at the site's highest point.
At the best excavated of these, Plaza Sur, stands Structure A-3 , a pyramidal platform with a
stela on each side and one at the top. Some of the characters depicted here have distinctly
non-Maya features and dress, which has led to speculation that foreigners once inhabited
the area. According to one hotly debated theory, the city was invaded by Putun Maya, a
race of merchant-warriors from the Tabasco area of Mexico, around the mid-ninth century.
This might account for the 'foreign' look of the moustachioed warrior on stele 11 , for ex-
ample, who stands on the east side of the platform.
Calzada I leads east to Grupo D , a more compact series of temples that backs up on a
precipitous gorge. About midway is a turnoff south for Calzada II, just beyond which is
the fantastically preserved stela 14, which may depict a tax collector. Proceeding down
Calzada II to the south, you reach the intriguing Structure 79 . Three stone steps surround
the unusual ring-shaped structure, which stands alone in a clearing with a small altar in
the shape of a jaguar's head. It is believed to have served as an astronomical observatory,
from which the inhabitants studied planetary movements.
Café del Río ( Click here ) in Sayaxché, on the north side of the river, runs lanchas
(small motorboats) here (Q470 for up to three persons) and Viajes Don Pedro ( Click here )
charges Q600 for up to five passengers. The fee should include a guide, who may actually
be the boatman. In high season, ask the lancheros about joining a tour group.
Alternatively, Ceibal can be reached over land: get any bus, minibus or pickup heading
south from Sayaxché on Hwy 5 (toward Raxrujá and Chisec) and get off after 9km at
Paraíso, from where it's an 8km walk east down a dirt track to Ceibal. In the rainy season
check first that this stretch is passable.
Laguna Petexbatún
Laguna Petexbatún is a 6km-long lake southwest of Sayaxché, approached by an hour's
lancha ride up the Río Petexbatún, a tributary of the Río de la Pasión. The lake, river and
surrounding forests harbor many birds, including kingfishers, egrets, vultures, eagles, cor-
 
Search WWH ::




Custom Search