Central & Eastern Guatemala - Guatemala - page 401

the steady increase in pilgrims to Esquipulas, a huge new church was inaugurated in 1758,
and the pilgrimage trade has been the town's livelihood ever since.

EL CRISTO NEGRO

Attracting more than a million pilgrims from Mexico, Central America, the US and further afield every year, the
Black Christ of Esquipulas is one of Guatemala's top tourist draws.
Myths surround the sculpture's color. It was long believed that the Spaniards who commissioned it in 1594 re-
quested a Christ with a skin tone resembling Esquipulas' Ch'ortí natives, so that they would be easier to convert.
Studies have shown, though, that it is made from a light wood, possibly cedar. Some believers say it turned black
mysteriously overnight - others say that it happened as a result of human contact and the amount of incense burnt
in the church over the centuries.
The Black Christ first gained widespread attention when the Archbishop of Guatemala recovered miraculously
from a chronic illness after visiting Esquipulas in 1737, and the town got a healthy publicity kick when Pope John
Paul II visited in 1996.
But the statue's popularity has also been explained by the syncretism of pre-Christian and Christian beliefs. All
throughout the Americas, when the Spanish arrived, indigenous peoples soon discovered it was less painful to ap-
pear to accept the new religion, basically retaining their traditional beliefs and renaming the old gods accordingly.
In Maya culture, black was the color of warriors, and associated with magic, death, violence and sacrifice. Ac-
cordingly, the Cristo Negro can be seen as a warrior Christ, defeater of death.
There are two authorized copies of Esquipulas' Cristo Negro in the United States. One in New York has come
to represent the sufferings and hardships experienced by the Latino community there, while the one in Los
Angeles (which was smuggled into the country, allegedly aided by bribed officials) has taken on a special signi-
ficance for undocumented immigrants.

Sights & Activities

Basílica de Esquipulas
(11a Calle) A massive pile of stone that has resisted the power of earthquakes for almost 250
years, the basilica is approached through a pretty park and up a wide flight of steps. The
impressive facade and towers are floodlit at night.
Inside, the devout approach the surprisingly small El Cristo Negro (Black Christ) with
extreme reverence, many on their knees. Incense, murmured prayers and the scuffle of
sandaled feet fill the air. When there are throngs of pilgrims, you must enter the church
from the side to get a close view of the famous shrine. Shuffling along quickly, you may
get a good glimpse or two before being shoved onward by the crowd behind you. On
Sundays, religious holidays and (especially) during the festival, the press of devotees is
intense. On weekdays, you may have the place to yourself, which can be very powerful
and rewarding. On weekends, you may feel very removed from the intensity of emotion
shown by the majority of pilgrims, whose faith is very deep.

BASILICA