Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
farm has gorgeous views, and the hike to the nearby waterfall comes with some very wel-
come swimming at the end of it. Various short- and long-term volunteer positions are
available. The easiest way to get here is by contacting the office in Quetzaltenango and
coming when a Spanish school comes on tour (most weekends). Otherwise it's easy
enough from Retalhuleu. Buses leave at midday (but get there early) from the main ter-
minal - look for the one that says 'Hochen' - and it's about a one-hour, Q10 ride out to
the farm.
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Champerico
POP 8700
Built as a shipping point for coffee during the boom of the late 19th century, Champerico,
38km southwest of Retalhuleu, is a tawdry, sweltering, dilapidated place that sees few
tourists. Nevertheless, it's one of the easiest ocean beaches to reach on a day trip from
Quetzaltenango, and heat-starved students still try their luck here. Beware of strong waves
and an undertow if you go in the ocean, and stay in the main, central part of the beach: if
you stray too far in either direction you put yourself at risk from impoverished, potentially
desperate shack dwellers who live towards the ends of the beach. Tourists have been vic-
tims of violent armed robberies here.
Most beachgoers come only to spend the day, but there are several cheap hotels. With
large clean rooms just across the road from the beach, the
Hotel Maza
( 7773-7180; s/d Q150/
250; )
is a good bet. All the seaside eateries offer a similar deal - fresh seafood for
around Q40 to Q80 per plate.
Camarones al ajillo
(garlic shrimp) and
caldo de mariscos
(seafood stew) are the standout items. As always, the busiest place will have the freshest
food. All other things being equal,
7 Mares
(mains from Q30; 8am-7pm)
rates a mention for its
shaded swimming pool, leafy dining area and upstairs deck which catches good breezes
and views. The last buses back to Quetzaltenango leave at about 6pm, a bit later for Retal-
huleu.
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Mazatenango
POP 55,500 / ELEV 370M
