Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Set on a hill and surrounded by lush coffee plantations, Coatepeque is a brash, fairly ugly
and chaotic commercial center, noisy and humid at all times. If you read the papers, the
name Coatepeque should be familiar. A major stopover on the Colombia-Mexico drugs
'n' guns route, this town probably has more gang-related activity than any other outside of
Guatemala City. Barely a day goes by without somebody getting shot in a turf war or re-
venge killing. Tourists are never the target, and rarely get caught in the crossfire, but keep
your wits about you. It
is
another facet of Guatemala, and probably not one you want to
get too acquainted with.
If you're here to see the ruins at Takalik Abaj, Retalhuleu is a much better bet. If you
really want to stay here or (more likely) get stuck, there are a couple of places in the relat-
ively quiet town center that will put you up admirably.
Maya Expeditions (
Click here
)
runs rafting expeditions on the nearby Río Naranjo for
Q850 per person per day.
Hotel Baechli
( 7775-1483; 6a Calle 5-45, Zona 1; s/d Q95/170; )
has cool, simple rooms with
fan.
Hotel Europa
( 7775-1396; 6a Calle 4-01, Zona 1; r per person Q100)
is a cool and tranquil older-
style hotel. Front rooms have balconies overlooking the plaza, but can be noisy during the
day.
Good restaurants (mostly in the steakhouse and/or Chinese vein) are scattered around
the park.
Max Café
(4a Calle 3-52, Zona 1; mains Q35-75; 7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 7am-1pm Sun)
is vaguely
hip and completely out of place in otherwise workaday Coatepeque, and serves up a good
range of salads and sandwiches, some OK mains and the best coffee in town.
Coatepeque is a major transport hub for the Pacific Slope, and bus connections here are
good. The bus terminal is 2km to the north of town, but most buses stop in the center.
There are departures to El Carmen (Q25, two hours), Tecún Umán (Q25, two hours),
Quetzaltenango (Q30, 2½ hours), Tilapa (Q10, 1½ hours) and Retalhuleu (Q10, one hour),
among others. Several Pullman bus companies stop here on the Guatemala City-Tecún
Umán run, providing much more comfort and possibly a welcome spot of air-conditioning
in the tropical heat. They stop on the street one block east of the bus terminal and charge
Q60 for the four-hour run to Guatemala City.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Retalhuleu
POP 43,700 / ELEV 240M
