The Pacific Slope - Guatemala - page 326

had here, although as with all the beaches along this coast, the undertow can be quite seri-
ous and there are no lifeguards. If you're not a strong swimmer, don't go too far out.
There's not a whole lot to do (which is kind of the point), but local fishermen offer fas-
cinating boat tours of the estuary, mangroves and adjoining Reserva Natural El Manchón for
Q100 per boat per hour. There are no guarantees, but local wildlife includes iguanas, cro-
codiles, white herons, egrets and kingfishers.
Back in Tilapita, the Tortugario Tilapita , across the path from Hotel Pacific Mar, is fight-
ing an uphill battle to preserve the local sea turtle population, and would be quite happy
for whatever help they can get if you're looking for some volunteer work.
One of the best accommodation deals along the coast, Hotel Pacific Mar ( 5914-1524;
www.playatilapa.com ; s/d Q60/100; ) is nothing fancy, but it has decent-sized, clean concrete
rooms. Delicious meals (Q50) are served in an oversized thatched-roof palapa (thatched
palm-leaf shelter), and generally consist of the catch of the day - shrimp, fish and caldo
de mariscos (seafood stew) are always a good bet. The good-sized swimming pool is a
welcome addition, as things can get slightly warm here.
Coming from Tecún Umán, you might luck onto a direct minibus (Q10, 45 minutes) to
Tilapa - if not, take any bus heading out of town, get off at the Tilapa turnoff and wait for
an onward bus there. A much more scenic option is to take a bus to Ocós (Q12, 30
minutes) and a lancha (small boat; around Q20, 45 minutes) to Tilapita from there. Com-
ing in the other direction, direct buses run from Coatepeque to Tilapa (Q10, 1½ hours).
Once you get to Tilapa, turn left down the side street and follow it to the dock, where you
will find lanchas waiting. The 10-minute ride to Tilapita costs Q10 per person in a shared
lancha, or you can hire a private one to make the trip for Q50. Tell the lanchero you are
going to el hotel (although he will probably know that already). If you get stuck, there are
cheap, not-so-lovely hotels in Tilapa.
Pullman drivers doing the Guatemala City-Tecún Umán run often stop in at Tilapa. If
you're headed straight for the capital (Q60, four hours) or anywhere in between, ask
around to find out when the next departure is.
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Coatepeque
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