Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
What is known is that the Olmecs were among the first to arrive, followed by the Ocós
and Iztapa, whose cultures appear to have flourished around 1500 BC.
Although these cultures were much more humble than those of their northerly counter-
parts, they developed a level of sophistication in stone carving and ceramics. It's also
thought that the coastal region acted as a conduit, passing cultural advances (like the
formation of writing and the Maya calendar) from north to south.
Between AD 400 and 900, the Pipil moved in, most likely displaced by the turmoil in
the Mexican highlands, and began farming cacao, which they used to make a (rather bit-
ter) chocolate drink. They also used cacao beans as currency.
Towards the end of the Postclassic period, the K'iche', Kaqchiquel and Tz'utujil indi-
genous groups began moving in as population expansion in Guatemala's highlands made
food scarce and land squabbles common.
Pedro de Alvarado, the first Spaniard to land in Guatemala, arrived here in 1524, paus-
ing briefly to fight the K'iche' as a sort of forerunner to a much larger battle around
present-day Quetzaltenango.
Further agricultural projects (mostly indigo and cacao) were started around this time,
but it wasn't until independence that the region became one of the country's main agricul-
tural suppliers, with plantations of coffee, bananas, rubber and sugarcane.
In the languid tropical climate here, not much changes, particularly the social structure.
The distribution of land - a few large landholders and many poorly paid, landless farm
workers - can be traced back to these early post-independence days. You'll see the out-
come as you travel around the region - large mansions and opulent gated communities
alongside squalid, makeshift workers' huts.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Tilapita
Just south of the Mexican border, this little fishing village is the place to come for some
seriously laid-back beach time. There's exactly one hotel here (and it's a good one) and
it's a world away from the often hectic, scruffy feel of other towns along the coast.
The village, which sits on a sandbar cut off from the mainland by the Ocós estuary, is
only reachable by boat from the town of Tilapa. There's some excellent swimming to be
 
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