The Highlands - Guatemala - page 317

From Santa Eulalia the rough road keeps climbing through pasturelands and occasional
pine forest - sit on the left and you can see all the way to Mexico - and after 30km
reaches San Mateo Ixtatán , the logical place to break the journey if you're heading for La-
guna Lachuá from Huehue. Perched on an aerie with the jagged peaks of the
Cuchumatanes trailing off into the clouds, the town unfolds organically over the green
slopes. (The mist can descend early here, wiping out visibility by early afternoon.) Quaint
buildings with pillared verandas and painted designs on the doors line largely traffic-free
paths.
The women of this small Chuj town wear captivating huipiles , lacy white affairs with
concentric floral patterns embroidered on the neckline. San Mateo's church has a primit-
ive charm. Beyond a rather dumpy facade is an austere interior with crude fruit motifs
painted on the pillars. The real action seems to be out front in the atrium, where a smoking
altar attests to the enduring Maya influence.
The newish Hotel Magdalena ( 5374-3390; s/d Q75/150) is easily the most comfortable option
in town and the showers are scalding hot (but ask if the heater is on beforehand). From the
park, go uphill and take the first street on the right; the yellow box is adjacent to the
Banco Agromercantil. Right above the turnoff is spiffy Los Picones al Chaz Chaz ( breakfast,
lunch & dinner) , where you can have fresh tamales with delicious salsas in the morning, as
well as tacos and steaks.
Barillas-bound buses from Huehuetenango stop in Soloma, Santa Eulalia and San
Mateo.
East to Playa Grande
Leaving San Mateo, the road drops and the weather becomes slightly kinder. After 28km,
you'll reach Barillas , a prosperous coffee-growing town with a lowland feel. There are reg-
ular microbuses between the terminal and the town center (Q2, seven minutes). In town,
the efficiently run Hotel Villa Virginia ( 7780-2236; cnr 3a Calle & 3 Av; r per person Q84) is right on
the plaza, with a restaurant attached. There's a Banrural, with Cajero 5B ATM, at the
corner of the park. Three restaurants are along 3a Calle within a block of the park; Res-
taurant El Café, opposite the Villa Virginia, does a mean caldo de gallina .
If you're moving on for Cobán or El Petén, get an early start. Pickups head for Playa
Grande (Q60, four hours) hourly from 7am to 10am, departing from Mercado No 1 in the
center of town. The road goes through the remote villages and forests of the Ixcán region,