Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The whole town is Guatemala's garment district: every inch is jammed with vendors
selling sweaters, socks, blankets, jeans, scarves and more. Bolts of cloth spill from store-
fronts packed to the ceiling with miles of material.
Around mid-morning when the clouds roll away, panoramic views can be had from the
roof of the
church
. The caretaker will let you go up for a small tip. On the way through,
have a look at the six elaborate gilded altarpieces and remains of what must once have
been very colorful frescoes.
San Francisco's big party is the
Fiesta de San Francisco de Asís
, celebrated around October 4
with traditional dances.
Hotel Vista Hermosa
( 7738-4010; cnr 2a Calle & 3a Av; s/d Q75/150, without bathroom Q35/70)
does in-
deed have beautiful views out over the valley to the Santa María volcano. Rooms are spa-
cious, with balconies and (thankfully) hot showers. Thursday nights it's likely to fill up.
Good
chuchitos
(small tamales),
chiles rellenos
and other prepared foods are sold from
stacks in the marketplace.
9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
changes traveler's checks and
Banco Reformador
(2a Calle 3-23;
has a Visa ATM.
Buses to San Francisco leave Quetzaltenango's Terminal Minerva (passing through
Cuatro Caminos) frequently throughout the day (Q10, one hour). Arriving from Quetzal-
tenango on market day, get off on 4a Av at the top of the hill and walk towards the church.
Momostenango
POP 51,822 / ELEV 2259M
Beyond San Francisco El Alto, 26km from Quetzaltenango, this town, set in a pretty
mountain valley along a road through pine woods, is famous for the making of
chamar-
ras,
or thick woollen blankets, as well as ponchos and other woolen garments. The best
days to look for these are Wednesday and Sunday, the main market days.
Momostenango is noted for its adherence to the ancient Maya calendar and observance
of traditional rites. The town's five main altars are the scene of ceremonies enacted on im-
portant celestial dates such as the summer solstice; the spring equinox; the start of the
Maya solar year, known as El Mam, observed in late February; and Wajshakib' B'atz, the
start of the 260-day
tzolkin
year. Should you be allowed access to these ceremonies, be
sure to treat altars and participants with the utmost respect.
