Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(per person Q95)
, each with a hot tub and cold shower, barbecue and a fireplace to ward off
the mountain chill at night (wood and matches provided). Included in the price of the cot-
tages is access to the pools all day and all night, when rules are relaxed.
Trails lead to two nearby volcanoes:
Volcán Zunil
(15km, about three hours one way) and
Volcán Santo Tomás
(25km, about five hours one way). Guides (essential) are available for
either trip. Ask at the restaurant.
Fuentes Georginas offers daily shuttles from Xela to the site (Q115 return, including en-
They return to Xela at 1pm and 6pm.
San Andrés Xecul
A few kilometers past Salcajá, the road from Quetzaltenango passes the Morería cross-
roads, where a branch heads west to San Andrés Xecul. After about 3km on this uphill
spur, you'll start seeing rainbow cascades of hand-dyed thread drying on the roofs and
you'll know you have arrived in San Andrés Xecul. Boxed in by fertile hills, this small
town boasts the most bizarre, stunning
church
imaginable. Technicolored saints, angels,
flowers and climbing vines fight for space with angels frolicking on the ledges and a pair
of jaguars scratching the top column on a shocking yellow facade. The cones on the bell
towers are straight from the circus big top.
Inside, a carpet of candles illuminate bleeding effigies of Christ. Above the altar, 'Fish-
er of Men' is written in blue neon, a reference to the town's patron saint.
Thursday and Friday are market days. The annual
festival
is November 30, with tightrope
walkers.
The community
tourist office
( 4778-4851; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri)
, to the left of the church,
echoes its playful facade. Here you can set up a guided walk of the town with visits to
hui-
pil
embroiderers, and dyers and candle makers, continuing up to
El Calvario
, the little yel-
low church at the top of the hill. Maya ceremonies, with plenty of burnt offerings, are still
held at the triple-cross altar alongside, and the panoramic view across the valley is phe-
nomenal. The tourist office also offers tours of surrounding villages.
To get here take any northbound bus from Xela, alighting at the Esso station at the
Morería crossroads and hailing a pickup or walking the 3km uphill. Buses returning to
Xela line up at the edge of the plaza and make the trip until about 5pm.
