Travel Reference
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Uspantán
POP 6792
About halfway between Huehuetenango and Cobán along the 7W road, Uspantán is a be-
nevolent town, offering a few attractions of its own, though the sky-high journey through
the Cuchumatanes is reason enough to travel there.
The setting of the town is stunning in a fertile valley at the base of green forested
mountains, over which a bank of clouds roll in each afternoon. Women wear lacy, loose-
fitting huipiles in bright orange or pink.
Founded by the Uspanteko Maya around the 6th century AD, it was originally dubbed
Tz'unun Kaab' - place of hummingbirds. The severe repression it experienced during the
armed conflict of the 1980s forged indigenous leader Rigoberta Menchú, who grew up a
five-hour walk through the mountains in the village of Laj Chimel - though some locals
wonder why she hasn't returned to her hometown. Cardamom is grown, pigs and sheep
are raised on the surrounding slopes and gravel mining is a key industry.
The helpful tourist office ( 5204-9145; vivian_aj89@hotmail.com; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) , on the
central plaza, provides info on a range of interesting trips, including community-led tours
of the cloud forest around Laj Chimel. Another tour visits the Maya ceremonial center at
Cerro Xoqoneb' (Q50 per person), a half-hour hike from the center of town.
There's a 5B ATM at Banrural, a block east of the church.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Don Gabriel $
( 7951-8540; hoteldongabriel@yahoo.es; 7a Av 6-22; s/d/tr Q75/150/210) Rooms at this excellent value
lodging, just around the corner from the Parque Central, have plenty of thick blankets for
the evening chill. If possible, choose a room on the top level opening onto a Gaudiesque
terrace with various plant-laden gazebos and fabulous views of the mountains. Downstairs
is a neat and clean little restaurant serving breakfast from 7am.
HOTEL
Hotel Posada Doña Leonor $
( 7951-8041; caluti54@hotmail.com; 6a Calle 4-25, Zona 1; s/d/tr Q80/140/180; ) This well-main-
tained option a couple of blocks east of the plaza features 21 rooms around a courtyard
HOTEL
 
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