The Highlands - Guatemala - page 191

Dangers & Annoyances
Although most visitors never experience any trouble, robberies have occurred along the
paths that run around Lago de Atitlán. The security situation is forever changing - some
months it's OK to walk between certain villages, then that route suddenly becomes dan-
gerous. It's best to check with Proatur ( Click here ) about the current situation.
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Sololá
POP 43,412 / ELEV 1978M
There was a Kaqchiquel town (called Tzoloyá) here long before the Spanish showed up.
Sololá's importance comes from its location on trade routes between the tierra caliente
(hot lands of the Pacific Slope) and tierra fría (the chilly highlands). All the traders meet
here, and Sololá's market ( Tue, Fri & Sun) is one of the most vivid in the highlands. On
market mornings the plaza next to the cathedral is ablaze with the colorful costumes of
people from surrounding villages and towns. Displays of meat, vegetables, fruit, home-
wares and clothing are neatly arranged in every available space, with tides of buyers
ebbing and flowing around the vendors. Elaborate stands are stocked with brightly colored
yarn for making the traditional costumes you see around you. Friday sees the most activ-
ity.
On Sunday mornings the officers of the traditional cofradías (religious brotherhoods)
parade ceremoniously to the cathedral.
All buses between Panajachel and Los Encuentros stop at Sololá. It's Q3 and 15
minutes to either place from Sololá.
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Panajachel
POP 23,534 / ELEV 1595M
The busiest and most built-up lakeside settlement, Panajachel ('Pana' to pretty much the
entire country) has developed haphazardly and, some say, in a less than beautiful way.
Strolling the main street, Calle Santander, crammed with cybercafes, travel agencies, han-
dicraft hawkers and rowdy bars, dodging noisome tuk-tuks all the way, you may be forgiv-
en for supposing this paradise lost.