Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Phone for an appointment and mention if you want to roast your own beans (minimum
2.5kg or 5lb). The
finca
is 7km from Antigua, just off the bus route to San Antonio Aguas
Calientes: you go through Ciudad Vieja and San Lorenzo El Cubo, then get off at the
crossroads known as 'El Guarda,' just before the road goes downhill to San Antonio.
Walk two blocks to the right (toward Volcán Agua) until you come to a wall with a mosaic
sign; ring the bell to enter.
San Antonio Aguas Calientes
This tranquil village surrounded by farmed volcanic slopes is noted for its textiles, and the
Mercado de Artesanías (handicrafts market) stands prominently beside the town hall. In-
side, women work on hip-strap looms and on the upper level there's an exhibit of tradi-
tional outfits, with examples from all over Guatemala. Ceremonial
huipiles
, embroidered
on both sides, can go for as much as Q2800 here.
TOP OF CHAPTER
San Juan Comalapa
Set on the side of a deep ravine, this artisans' village 16km north of Chimaltenango is best
known for its tradition of primitive folk painting. It's a relatively modern town, founded
by the Spanish when they amalgamated several Kaqchiquel communities.
Comalapa gained its reputation during the 1950s when native son Andrés Curruchich
(1891-1969) rose to fame for his primitive paintings of village life and his works ended
up on display as far away as San Francisco, Dallas and Detroit. Considered the father of
Guatemalan primitivist painting, he was awarded the prestigious Order of the Quetzal in
the 1960s. Several pieces are displayed at the Museo Ixchel (
Click here
)
in Guatemala
City - though sadly, the artist remains more seriously collected abroad than in his native
land.
In Comalapa, you can visit the house Curruchich was born in, on the main street. His
daughter and granddaughter will show you around and there is some information about
the artist. His legacy lives on as some of his offspring and other villagers took up the
brush and started working in a similar primitive style. Scenes of traditional festivals and
ritual dances predominate in the paintings of Comalapa, though you'll also see some high-
land landscapes. Several galleries around the plaza show and sell their work.
