Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
by an affable Canadian-American couple, the eco-friendly retreat offers plenty to do: hik-
ing, bird-watching, Spanish lessons, a
chuj
(Maya sauna) or just hanging in a hammock.
Accommodation is in comfortable A-frame cabins, an eight-bed dorm and a couple of
fabulous tree houses. Lip-smacking, nutritious vegetarian food is served with a slew of
avocado-based fare at harvest time (January and July). A portion of the profits buys sup-
plies for the village school.
To get there, your best bet is to call at least a day in advance to see if the lodge can pick
you up from Antigua (Q30 per person with two passengers). Otherwise, a bus leaves in-
frequently from in front of the Iglesia de la Candelaria on 1a Av Norte in Antigua for
Aldea El Hato. From there it's a 25-minute walk - any villager can give you directions -
just ask for 'los gringos'.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Ciudad Vieja & Around
Getting There & Around
A good way to tour this area is by bicycle. Head out of Antigua along the Ciudad Vieja
road south of the market. It's a 4km ride along a moderately busy road to Ciudad Vieja.
Take 4a Calle west through the restored colonial part of town. Back at the main road, turn
left. When you reach the cemetery, go right, following signs for San Miguel Dueñas.
From there, it's about a 10-minute ride downhill to the Valhalla Experimental Station, on
the left side. The road goes on to San Miguel Dueñas. Coming into that town, you'll go
over a small bridge. Bear right, then turn right at the sign for San Antonio Aguas Cali-
entes. This road, unpaved for much of the way, winds for the next 5km through coffee
fin-
cas
(plantations), hamlets and vegetable fields. Arriving in San Antonio, turn right at the
communal wash basins to reach the main plaza.
Leaving town, go around the left side of the church, then head left up 2a Calle. From
there, it's a steep climb but you're rewarded with breathtaking views of the village. Bey-
ond the Finca Los Nietos coffee plantation, you'll reach the RN-14 Hwy. Turn left there
and go 2km, taking the second right onto a dirt road. This will take you back to the Ci-
udad Vieja-Antigua road, where a left turn leads you back into town.
