Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
O BROTHER THOU ART HERE
The spirit of Hermano Pedro, Antigua's most venerated Christian, looms large more than three centuries after his
death. The saint's tomb, inside the Iglesia de San Francisco (
Click here
), overflows with devotional plaques, amu-
lets and tokens from the faithful offering gratitude for his miraculous healing powers. Antigua's only public hos-
pital, southeast of the Parque Central, was dubbed in his honor and carries on his mission of providing health ser-
vices to those unable to afford them.
Born on Tenerife in the Canary Islands in 1627, Pedro de Bethancourt labored as a shepherd until he hung up
his staff at the age of 24 and made for Guatemala to help the poor, though the arduous journey left Pedro himself
impoverished. Further hardship awaited when he flunked his studies at the Franciscan seminary in Antigua.
Undaunted, he took to picking up dying Maya off the street and treating them during the plagues of the 1600s. He
had found his true calling, and a few years later built a hospital devoted to healing the indigent, then built home-
less shelters and schools for poor students. His efforts gave rise to a new religious order, the Bethlehemites,
which took on his mantle after his death in 1667. To this day, flocks of devotees visit his tomb, a phenomenon the
Vatican recognized when Pope John Paul II canonized the good brother in 2002, making him Guatemala's only
officially authorized saint.
Eating
For global gourmands, Antigua is a banquet. Within 10 minutes' walk of Parque Central
you can dine well and inexpensively on Italian, Belgian, French, Thai, Indian, Irish, Is-
raeli, German, Danish, Chinese, Mexican and Salvadoran cuisines.
Saturday and Sunday evenings, tables are set up in front of Convento La Merced (
Click
males and
chuchitos
laced with hot sauce and pickled cabbage, along with bowls of
atol
blanco
(corn-based hot beverage). Talk about comfort food!
Note that most formal restaurants in Antigua whack on a 10% tip before presenting the
bill. It should be itemized, but if in doubt, ask.
Tienda La Canche $
(6a Av Norte 42; set lunch Q20)
A hole in the wall if there ever was one, the restaurant, behind a
'mom and pop' store, consists of two tables with floral tablecloths. It prepares a couple of
traditional options daily, such as
pepián de pollo,
a hearty chicken stew containing chunks
of potato and
huizquil
, a yucca-like tuber, accompanied by a tray of thick tortillas.
Fres-
cos,
home-squeezed fruit beverages, are served alongside.
GUATEMALAN
Restaurante Doña Luisa Xicotencatl $
CAFE
