Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Forging Russians and Estonians into a single society, with the Estonian language dom-
inant, was an optimistic goal in the early 1990s. Ethnic Russians grumbled, but knew they
probably had a brighter economic future in Estonia than in Russia. Now, with a new gen-
eration of children learning both languages in school and everyone enjoying reasonable
prosperity, peaceful ethnic coexistence (like between Swedes and Finns in Helsinki) seems
achievable.
For a quick look at Lasnamäe, hop bus #67 or #68 (each runs every 10-15 minutes);
both leave from Teatri Väljak, on the far side of the pastel yellow theater from the Old
Town, across from the Solaris shopping mall. You'll see carefully dressed young women,
track-suited men, grass that needs mowing, cracked paving stones, grandmothers pushing
strollers, and lots of new, boxy shops. Ride to the last stop (about 25 minutes), then return
to town.
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Estonian Open-Air Museum (Vabaõhumuuseum)
—Influenced by their ties with
Nordic countries, Estonians are enthusiastic advocates of open-air museums. For this one,
they salvaged farm buildings, windmills, and an old church from rural areas and transpor-
ted them to a park-like setting just outside town (4 miles west of the Old Town). The goal:
to both save and share their heritage. Attendants are posted in many houses, but to really
visualize life in the old houses, rent the audioguide (€7/3 hours). The park's Kolu Tavern
serves traditional dishes. You can rent a bike (€3/hour) for a breezy roll to quiet, faraway
spaces in the park.
