Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
quest buildings remaining in Helsinki. On the right, the line of once-grand Russian admin-
istration buildings now house the
university
(36,000 students, 60 percent female). Sym-
bolically (and physically), the university and government buildings are connected via the
cathedral, and both use it as a starting point for grand ceremonies.
The
statue
in the center of the square honors Russian Czar Alexander II. While he
wasn't popular in Russia (he was assassinated), he was well-liked by the Finns. That's be-
cause he gave Finland more autonomy in 1863 and never pushed the “Russification” of Fin-
land. The statue shows him holding the Finnish constitution, which he supported. It defined
internal independence and affirmed autonomy.
The huge staircase leading up to the cathedral is a popular meeting (and tanning) spot in
Helsinki. This is where students from the nearby university gather...and romances are born.
Café Engel (opposite the cathedral at Aleksanterinkatu 26) is a fine place for a light lunch
or cake and coffee. The café's winter lighting seems especially designed to boost the spirits
of glum, daylight-deprived Northerners.
National Library
—This fine, purpose-built Neoclassical building is open to the public
and worth a look (on Senate Square, immediately to the left as you face the cathedral). In
czarist times, the National Library received a copy of every book printed in the Russian
Empire. With all the chaos Russia suffered throughout the 20th century, a good percentage
of its Slavic texts were destroyed. But Helsinki, which enjoyed relative stability, claims to
have the finest collection of Slavic books in the world.
CostandHours:
Free, July-Aug Mon-Thu 9:00-18:00, Fri 9:00-16:00, closed Sat-Sun;
Sept-June Mon-Thu 9:00-20:00, Fri-Sat 9:00-16:00, closed Sun;
www.nationallibrary.fi
.
▲
Helsinki City Museum
—This interesting museum, a half-block south of Senate
Square, gives an excellent, accessible overview of the city's history in English. Unfortu-
nately, it may close or relocate in the future—inquire locally.
Cost and Hours:
Free, Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00, Thu until 19:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-17:00,
Sofiankatu 4,
www.helsinkicitymuseum.fi
.
Elsewhere in Central Helsinki
▲▲▲
Temppeliaukio Church
—A more modern example of great church architecture
(from 1969), this “Church in the Rock” was blasted out of solid granite. It was designed by
architect brothers, Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen, and built within a year's time. Barren of
decor except for a couple of simple crosses, the church is capped with a copper-and-sky-
light dome; it's normally filled with live or recorded music and awestruck visitors. Grab
a pew. Gawk upward at a 13-mile-long coil of copper ribbon. Look at the bull's-eye and
ponder God. Forget your camera. Just sit in the middle, ignore the crowds, and be thankful
for peace...under your feet is an air-raid shelter that can accommodate 6,000 people.
