Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
stand at opposite extremes. Back home, just about everywhere we look, we
are inundated by advertising encouraging us to consume. Airports are paid to
drone commercials on loud TVs. Magazines are beefy with slick ads. Sports
stars wear corporate logos. Our media are shaped and driven by corporate
marketing. But in Iran, Islam reigns. Billboards, Muzak, TV programming,
and young people's education all trumpet the teachings of great Shia holy
men...at the expense of the economy. Consequently, many in Iranian society
tune into Western media via satellites and the Internet, and barely watch
Iranian media. Iran's youth are very Web-savvy.
Despite all of this, when it comes to religion, I was surprised by the
general mellowness of the atmosphere in Iran compared to other Muslim
countries I've visited. Except for the strict women's dress codes and the lack
of American products and businesses (because of the US embargo), life on
the streets in Iran was much the same as in secular cities elsewhere. In fact,
ironically, despite the aggressively theocratic society, the country felt no more
spiritual than neighboring, secular Muslim nations. During my visit, I didn't
see spiny minarets and didn't hear calls to prayer—a strong contrast to my
Ramadan visit to Istanbul the previous year (described in Chapter 6).
While the focus of my trip was on the people rather than the politics,
Iran's theocracy makes civil rights concerns unavoidable. Civil liberties for
women, religious minorities, and critics of the government are the mark of
any modern, free, and sustainable
democracy. I believe that, given
time and a chance to evolve on
their cultural terms, the will of
any people ultimately prevails. But
in Iran, that time is not yet here.
For now, this country is not free.
(And no one here claims it is-
locals told me, “Iranian democracy:
We are given lots of options...and
then the government makes the
choice for you.”) A creepiness that
comes with a “big brother” govern-
ment pervaded the place. Every day
during my visit, I wondered how
free-minded people cope.
Iranians are constantly reminded that charity is
Muhammad-like. With a religious of ering box
on literally every street corner, extra money is
raised for orphanages, schools, and hospitals.
