Travel Reference
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I stepped out onto the 15th-l oor balcony of my fancy hotel room to
hear the hum of the city. I enjoyed the view of a vast, twinkling city at twi-
light. Fresh snow capped the mountains above the ritzy high-rise condos of
North Tehran.
As I looked straight down, I noticed the hotel's entryway buzzing with
activity, as it was hosting a conference on Islamic unity. h e circular drive-
way was lined by the l ags of 30 nations. Huge collections of l ags seemed
to be common in Iran—perhaps because it provided a handy opportunity
to exclude the Stars and Stripes. (h e only American l ags I saw during the
trip were the ones featured in hateful political murals.)
A van with an X-ray security checkpoint was permanently parked outside
the entrance, carefully examining the bags of each visitor. It was interesting
to see that Iran, a country we feel we need to protect ourselves from, had its
own security headaches.
Back in my room, I nursed a tall glass of pomegranate juice. My lips were
puckered from munching lemony pistachios from an elegantly woven tray—
the best I've ever tasted (and I am a pistachio connoisseur). I cruised the
channels on my TV: CNN, BBC, and—rather than shopping channels—lots
of programming designed to set the mood for prayer. One channel showed
a mesmerizing river with water washing lovingly over shiny rocks. Another
featured the sun setting on Mecca, with live coverage of the pilgrim action
at the Kaaba. I was a long way from home...and ready to explore.
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