Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
“Charming—he's draped Ramadan lights on his Christmas tree.” I marveled
at the multigenerational conviviality at the Hippodrome—that long, oblong
plaza still shaped like the chariot racecourse it was 18 centuries ago. Preco-
cious children high-i ved me and tried out their only English phrase: “What
is your name?” Just to enjoy their quizzical look, I'd say, “Seven o'clock.” As I
struggle to understand their society, I guess my mischievous streak wanted
them to deal with a little confusion as well.
It's in this environment that, as a tour guide, I would introduce tour
members (like my father) to Turkish culture and Islam. I recall well-educated
professionals struggling to get things straight. People would quiz me: “So,
where did they get the name Quran for their Bible? Could it be considered
a Bible?” Turkish guides love to tell stories of tourists who ask, “So, was this
church built before or after Christ?” But all guides repeat to themselves the i rst
rule of guiding: “h ere are no stupid questions.” After all, it's in environments
like Istanbul—in countries all around the world—that thoughtful travelers
get out of their comfort zones and enjoy the easy educational rewards that
come with being steep on the learning curve.
Turkish Village Insights in Güzelyurt
Big cities can be relatively cosmopolitan and homogenized by modern al u-
ence. But small towns, with their more change-averse residents, are cultural
humidors—keeping fragile traditions moist and full of local l avor.
Güzelyurt, an obscure-to-the-world but proud-of-itself village in cen-
tral Turkey, teaches me the richness and nobility of rustic village life in the
developing world. Students of the world i nd that, in any country, remote
towns and villages can be wonderful classrooms.
Güzelyurt was all decked out on my last visit. I happened to arrive on
the day of everybody's favorite festival: a circumcision party. Turks call it “a
wedding without the in-laws.” h e little boy, dressed like a prince, rode tall
on his decorated donkey through a commotion of friends and relatives to
the house where a doctor was sharpening his knife. Even with paper money
pinned to his fancy outi t and loved ones chanting calming spiritual music,
the boy looked frightened. But the ritual snipping went of without a glitch—
and a good time was had at least by everyone else.
On a dif erent trip, I learned that Turkish weddings—while not as
much fun as circumcisions—are also quite a spectacle. I'll never forget being
a special guest at a wedding in Güzelyurt. h
e entire community gathered.
