what-when-how
In Depth Tutorials and Information
the toe area of the last is called the toe spring and it varies dependent
on the height of the heel. The heel pitch is the angle from the plantar heel
to the ball of the foot and it increases with the height of the heel. The toe
spring is often higher in high-heeled designs to counteract the increase
in heel pitch. In some specialist therapeutic footwear, the toe spring is
increased even with a low heel to create a rocker effect in the fore part
of the foot, thereby reducing abnormal forces in this area and increasing
ground clearance. This therapeutic effect of shoe design in specialist
ranges is discussed in Chapter 7.
Pattern cutting
Sectional patterns are produced for the uppers, linings, insoles, heels,
soles, stiffeners, backers and toe puffs. The lasting allowance is added
to allow the component parts to be fixed to each other. The materials
used in making the shoes are cut from these working patterns. Tradition-
ally, these patterns were made from thick paper but now technology has
advanced to the point of computer-generated patterns (
Figure 5.4
). The
Figure 5.4
Pattern making using CADCAM technology
