what-when-how
In Depth Tutorials and Information
be firm and it closely to the contours of the foot in these locations.
The fastening around the foot prevents it sliding forward and the corre-
sponding support at the heel prevents it from slipping backwards and
sideward; therefore, mules, clogs, sandals and court shoes may be seen
as being unsuitable. The suitability of each of the main styles depends,
however, on the exact styling, heel height, materials used and also,
perhaps most importantly, the use for which a person will be wearing the
footwear. For example, high-heeled court shoes may be worn with
minimal risks to foot health in healthy individuals if they are worn for a very
short time with little weight bearing. If these shoes were worn for a long
walk in the countryside, they would not function well and the feet would
certainly suffer. Generally, an increase in heel height will increase
the pressure under the forefoot and this has to be a consideration for
people who have forefoot pathology or compromised tissue viability
that will be vulnerable to necrosis and ulceration when put under exces-
sive pressure.
Manufacture of footwear
The manufacture of footwear consists of several stages, starting with
the manufacture of the last. The patterns that form the blueprint
of the upper of the footwear are then cut and used in the process of
cutting the leather for the upper. 'Closing' involves attaching the pieces
of the upper together before the next stage, which is attaching the upper
around the last and attaching the sole and heel. The final stage is called
finishing, which involves tidying up the shoe, polishing it and attaching
laces.
Last manufacture
The last is the mould on which the shoe is made. The word 'last' is derived
from the old Anglo-Saxon word 'laest', which means footprint or foot
track. The last determines the it and feel of the shoe as well as wear
performance.
Last design and manufacture is an extremely skilled craft. The meas-
urements of the last are related to volume rather than width and length,
and in this respect a last is not an impression of a foot. This is to ensure
good it and also take into account the changing dimensions of the foot
during movement. Traditionally a craft skill, modern methods of last con-
struction involve CADCAM technology.
Traditionally, lasts were made of hardwoods (
Figure 5.3
), but they are
now made mainly of plastic, which does not swell or shrink; metal lasts
