what-when-how
In Depth Tutorials and Information
are often joined in the centre at the back of the heel. The inside of the
quarter is usually reinforced around the heel with a stiffener called the heel
counter, which has the purpose of stabilizing the rearfoot (particularly
important in people with excessive foot pronation). In specialist footwear
the heel counter can be extended medially and/or laterally to provide
greater stability. In lace-up shoes the eyelets for the laces are at the front
of the quarter and this part of the quarter covers the tongue, which is
attached to, or forms part of, the vamp.
Key
Concept
A supportive heel counter is essential, particularly if the rearfoot
requires support.
Throat
The position of this area of the shoe is dependent on the style. It is formed
by the seam joining the vamp to the quarter. A lower throat line will provide
a wider opening and is particularly useful in foot problems which require
ease of access to the shoe, for example, rheumatoid arthritis. The seam
will not stretch and therefore dictates the maximum width of the shoe.
Key
Concept
The throat of the shoe should open sufficiently for the foot to enter the
shoe easily without discomfort.
Shank
The shank reinforces the middle or the waist of the shoe to prevent it
collapsing or distorting. It therefore needs to be completely rigid or only
slightly flexible, and is often made from wood, steel, plastic or carbon
fibre. Shoes with a wedge sole or that are very lat do not need a shank.
Linings and insole
The linings are the inside of the vamp and quarter, and can be made of
softer material than the upper; hence, they provide greater comfort and
add to the durability of the footwear. The lining in the bottom of the shoe
on top of the insole is sometimes termed the insock and can be full length
or three-quarters long. The insole is the base inside of the shoe that
covers the join between the upper and the sole. It is usually made from
leather board but can also be made from material such as neoprene
rubber to cushion the forefoot. It protects the foot from the shank.
