Northern Highlands - Peru - page 878

GRAN VILAYA
The name Gran Vilaya refers to the bountiful valleys that spread out west of Chachapoyas,
reaching toward the rushing Río Marañón. Abutting the humid Amazon, this region sits in
a unique microcosm of perennially moist high-altitude tropics and cloud forests - an eco-
logical anomaly that gave rise to the Chachapoyas culture's moniker, People of the
Clouds. The fertility of this lush area was never a big secret - the valley successfully sup-
ported the huge populations of the Chachapoyas and Inca cultures, and to date more than
30 archaeological sites have been found dotting the mountains. Important sites like
Paxamarca , Pueblo Alto , Pueblo Nuevo and Pirquilla lie connected by winding goat-
tracks as they did hundreds of years ago, completely unexcavated, and can be visited on
multiday hikes. Immaculately constructed Inca roads weave up and around the hills, past
many ruined cities camouflaged by centuries of jungle.
The breathtaking, impossibly green and silt-filled Valle de Belén lies at the entrance of
Gran Vilaya. The flat valley floor here is dissected by the mouth of the widely meandering
Río Huaylla, coiled like a languid serpent. Filled with grazing cattle, horses and surroun-
ded on all sides by mist-covered hills, the vistas here are mesmerizing.
Most travel agencies in Chachapoyas offer trekking tours of this region.
KARAJÍA
This extraordinary funerary site hosts six sarcophagi perched high up a sheer cliff face.
Each long-faced tomb is constructed from wood, clay and straw and is uniquely shaped
like a stylized forlorn individual. The characters stare intently over the valley below,
where a Chachapoyas village once stood; you can see stone ruins scattered among the
fields of today. Originally there were eight coupled sarcophagi, but the third and eighth
(from the left) collapsed, opening up the adjoining coffins - which were found to contain
mummies, plus various crafts and artifacts related to the deceased. Look out for scattered
bones below the coffins. Only important individuals were buried with such reverence:
shamans, warriors and chieftains. The skulls above the tombs are thought to have been
trophies of enemies or possibly human sacrifices. Locals charge a S5 admission fee.
Karajía is a 45-minute walk from the tiny outpost of Cruz Pata, which is two hours
from Chachapoyas. Minibuses from Chachapoyas travel to Luya (S5.50, 50 minutes),
from where minibuses go to Cruz Pata (S4.50, 50 minutes). All said and done, a day tour
from Chachapoyas (S60) is the way to go; the hiking and drive time is a big investment to
stare up with binoculars for a few minutes at a set of cliffs 400m away.