Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(Chincha Alta 445; breakfast S6-9, snacks S1.50-4.50; from 7am Mon-Sat; )
The
traveler congregation gathers at this artsy cafe that serves organic coffee and espresso,
great breakfasts (including regional choices such as
juanes
), muffins doused in
manjar
blanco
(milk caramel), lentil burgers and the like. Cozy couches included.
La Tushpa $
(Ortiz Arrieta 753; mains S12-30)
Service is infamously slow but always worth the wait
at this classic Chachapoyas steak and chophouse. It doesn't look like much, but the meat-
heavy menu is highlighted by the
cuadril
(tri-tip), a succulent beef cut, and interesting
creations such as
lomo fino
(sirloin) with a spicy pisco sauce. There's a good deal of pork
and chicken to choose from as well, all of which come with delicious house sauces like
ají
(spicy pepper) and
chimichurri
(parsley, garlic, olive oil, oregano and vinegar). A high-
light.
STEAKHOUSE, PERUVIAN
Terra Mia Café $
(
www.terramiacafe.com
;
Chincha Alta 557; breakfast S8-13.50; from 7am; )
The
two stylish sisters that own Casa Vieja opened this sophisticated cafe next door to their
hotel. It boasts the fanciest espresso machine in town and a wonderful menu of both re-
gional and international breakfasts (ahem… waffles!) and great sandwiches on perfectly
soft-crunchy French bread, all served up in a cozy and clean atmosphere with colonial
archways and fashion-forward indigenous seat c ushions.
BREAKFAST, PERUVIAN
Dulcería Santa Elena $
(Amazonas 800-804; mains S1-5)
The crotchety old man here serves the town's best
pastries and cakes; if he likes you, though, he might throw something in for free.
DESSERTS
BORDER CROSSING: ECUADOR VIA JAÉN
If your next port of call is Ecuador, remember that you don't have to spend days on winding roads to get back to
the Peruvian coast. From Jaén, a good northbound road heads 107km to San Ignacio (population 10,720) near the
