Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE CHACHAPOYAS
The Chachapoyas, or 'People of the Clouds,' controlled the vast swath of land around present-day Chachapoyas
from AD 500 to around 1493, when the Incas conquered the area and ended the Chacha isolation. Very little is
known about this civilization, whose inhabitants were thought to be great warriors, powerful shamans and prolific
builders who were responsible for one of the most advanced civilizations of Peru's tropical jungles. Today, among
the many dozens of cliff tombs and hamlets of circular structures left behind, archaeologists match wits with
grave robbers in a race for a deeper understanding of the Chachapoyas.
The Chachapoyas were heavily engaged in trade with other parts of Peru. However, isolated in their cloud-
forest realm, they developed independently of these surrounding civilizations. The Chachapoyas speculatively
cultivated a fierce warrior cult; depicted trophy heads as well as left human skulls show evidence of trepanation
and intentional scalping. The eventual expansion of the Inca empire in the 15th century was met with fierce resist-
ance and sporadic fighting continued well after the initial conquest.
Environmentalists long before Greenpeace members got into rubber dinghies, the Chachapoyas built structures
that were in perfect harmony with their surroundings and that took advantage of nature's aesthetic and practical
contributions. The Chachapoyas religion is believed to have venerated some of the salient natural features of these
territories; the serpent, the condor and the puma were worshipped as powerful representatives of the natural world
as were caves, lakes and mountains.
The unique use of circular construction was complemented by intricate masonry friezes, which used zigzags
and rhomboids. The buildings were covered by thatch roofs, which were tall and steep to facilitate the runoff of
the area's frequent rains. Hundreds of ruins illustrate Chachapoyas architecture, but none stand out as much as the
impressive fortified citadel of Kuélap, surrounded by a colossal 20m-high wall and encompassing hundreds of
dwellings and temples.
Sleeping
Most places in Chachapoyas fall squarely in the budget category.
Hostal Las Orquídeas $$
( 47-8271;
www.hostallasorquideas.com
; Ayacucho 1231; s/d incl breakfast
S60/100; )
Long on friendliness and value, this upscale guesthouse offers tile-floor
rooms (some bigger than others) that are bright and open and the public area is decorated
with cheerful colors and some wood and artsy accents. Renovated rooms offer granite slab
bathrooms with design-forward, hot water sinks that approach boutique levels. The staff
will help you book travel and arrange excursions, and prices include transfer from the bus
station.
GUESTHOUSE
Casa Vieja Hostal $$
BOUTIQUE GUESTHOUSE
