Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
panies in Cajamarca; these can be a good idea as public transportation to Cumbe Mayo is
sporadic.
VENTANILLAS DE OTUZCO & COMBAYO
These pre-Inca necropolises have scores of funerary niches built into the hillside, hence
the name Ventanillas (Windows). Ventanillas de Otuzco is in alluring countryside, 8km
northeast of Cajamarca, and is easily walkable from either Cajamarca or Los Baños del
Inca (ask for directions). The larger and better-preserved Ventanillas de Combayo are
30km away and are best visited on a tour from Cajamarca (between S20 and S25). Buses
to Ventanillas de Otuzco leave frequently from north of the Plaza de Armas in Cajamarca
(S1, 20 minutes).
Cajabamba
076 / POP 14,400 / ELEV 2655M
The old route from Cajamarca to Trujillo takes at least 15 hours along 360km of mostly
dirt road via Cajabamba and Huamachuco. Although this route passes through more inter-
esting scenery and towns than the road via Pacasmayo, the bus trip is very rough and few
tourists come through.
The friendly town of Cajabamba sits on a natural ledge overlooking farms and planta-
tions. Whitewashed houses, red-tiled roofs and a striking, bright yellow Plaza de Armas
with intricate marble railings lend the place a colonial aesthetic. The feast of La Virgen
del Rosario is celebrated around the first Sunday in October with bullfights, processions,
dances and general bucolic carousing, and an interesting cattle market springs up on
Mondays. Several sights are within an hour's walk of Cajabamba, including the caverns of
Chivato and the fetching mountain lagoons of Ponte and Quengococha . Ask at Hostal
La Casona ( 35-8285; Bolognesi 720) for information on visiting these sights.
There's a Banco de la Nación (Plaza de Armas) here with a Visa/Plus ATM.
Hostal La Casona ( 35-8285; Bolognesi 720; s/d S20/29) gets the ribbon for the top
place to stay in town, offering hot showers, cable TV and smallish and cute rooms, several
of which have balconies and plaza views.
The food outshines the decor at Don Lucho (Prado 227; mains S5-15) , just a half
block up behind the church. Solid menús of the usual Peruvian victuals go for S6 and à la
carte dishes are served as well.
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