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dancing, eating, singing, partying, costumes, parades and general rowdy mayhem. It's also a particularly wet affair
and water fights here are worse (or better, depending on your point of view) than you'd encounter elsewhere.
Local teenagers don't necessarily limit themselves to soaking one another with water - paint, oil and other un-
sightly liquids have all been reported.
Hotels fill up weeks beforehand, prices skyrocket and hundreds of people end up sleeping in the plaza. Consid-
ering it's one of the most rambunctious festivals in Peru, it certainly seems worth it.
Sleeping
Hotel rates (and other prices) rise during festivals and special events and are also usually
slightly higher in the dry season (May to September). Prices given here are for May to
September.
Posada del Purhuay $$$
( 46-7028; www.posadapurhuay.com.pe ; Km 4.5 Carretera Porcón; s/d incl
breakfast S240/300; ) This luxurious restored 1822 hacienda sitting on 23 hectares
off the road to Granja Porcón is a true find. The relaxing grounds are meticulously
groomed, leading to a lovely colonial hotel offering discerning service and a step-back-in-
time appeal. Spacious rooms, chock-full of antiquated charm and period furnishings, sur-
round an impeccable courtyard and fountain. Family getaway? Check. Tuck-yourself-
away romantic retreat? Check.
HISTORIC HOTEL
Hospedaje Las Jazmines $$
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( 36-1812; www.hospedajelosjazmines.com.pe ; Amazonas 775; s/d S50/80, without
bathroom S40/60; ) In a land of ubiquitous colonial courtyards, this German-run inn
is a value standout for its lush version and even more extensive back gardens. Comfy
rooms offer hot water and cable TV, some with exposed brick walls. The best thing about
it, however, is the in-house Espresso Bar independently run by the folks at Heladería
Holanda, which does the best coffee/espresso in town and has become a small traveler
hangout and work space. The downside is their lack of mastering reservations or answer-
ing emails, but we suspect inevitable change.
HISTORIC INN
Hostal Casona del Inca $$
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HISTORIC HOTEL
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