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juice) and chicharrónes, all served up in a great spot where the walls are literally covered
head-to-toe in historical photos of beauty queens, sports teams, school classes and other
Huaracino Kodak moments. Top spot.
Rinconcito Mineiro $
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(Morales 757; menú S7-12; ) The is the spot to tuck into homey and cheap Peruvian
daily menús . The daily blackboard of 10 or so options includes an excellent lomo saltado
as well as grilled trout, tacu-tacu and the like. It's all served up in a welcoming and clean
space tastefully decorated with Andean textiles. It's very, very popular.
PERUVIAN
California Café $
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( www.huaylas.com ; Calle 28 de Julio 562; breakfast S10-22; 7:30am-6:30pm, to 2pm
Sun; ) Managed by an American from California, this hip traveler magnet does break-
fasts at any time, plus light lunches and salads - it's a funky, chilled space to while away
many hours. You can spend the day listening to the sublime world music collection or
reading one of the hundreds of books available for exchange.
BREAKFAST, CAFE
La Brasa Roja $
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(Luzuriaga 915; mains S10-26) Hallelujah! Your eternal search for chicken salvation in
Peru ends here. This upscale pollería (restaurant specializing in roast chicken) is the ulti-
mate budget refueling stop. Not only is the chicken perfect, but you get five sauces -
count 'em, five! - instead of the usual three (black olive and mustard make a surprise ap-
pearance) as well as a live violinist. No lie.
PERUVIAN
El Horno $
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( www.elhornopizzeria.com ; Parque Periodista; pizzas S9.50-23.50, mains S12-26;
closed Sun) If you can cook it on a grill or in a wood-fired oven, El Horno can make it
sing. The different varieties of meat skewers and excellent thin-crust pizzas are the best
picks here. The place often fills up with trekking groups, so arrive early.
PIZZERIA
BREAKFAST, CAFE
Pastelería Café Turmanyé $
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