North Coast - Peru - page 740

( 25-8173; Piura 316; mains S30-35; closed Tue; ) Local boy done good, Juan
has turned his intimate little main drag seafooder into northern Peru's best restaurant. Yel-
lowfin tuna fresh from Máncora's waters is the showstopper here, whether it's prepared as
a tiradito (a sort of Peruvian sashimi) in yellow curry or grilled with a mango- rocoto -red
pepper chutney.
Also on the menu are creative raviolis and Peruvian classics given a foodie upgrade
(baby goat in black beer etc). Service in the small, French farmhouse-style space is per-
sonalized and on point. It's expensive for Máncora, but you'd probably pay triple this at
home. Reservations are not a bad idea in high season.

Donde Teresa $$$
( 25-8702; Antigue Panamericana Km 1217, Hotelier; mains S32-70; ) Before
Gastón Acurio, there was Teresa Ocampo, Peru's most recognizable celebrity chef (fam-
ous before Peruvian food was even famous). She lives in Texas now, but her son, Javier,
keeps the dream alive a short S5 mototaxi ride away on Los Pocitas Beach. Recommended
dishes include a smoked ají de gallina, stir-fried rice with seafood, anything with yellow-
fin tuna, and a memorable pisco-dunked bread pudding.
Javier has lived in France, China and God knows where else, so his skills are honed and
he even spears his own catches of the day on occasion! If this restaurant weren't fabulous,
Peruvians would riot. Call ahead in January, February and July.

SEAFOOD, PERUVIAN

Las Gemelitas $$
(Bastidas 154; mains S15-20) Three blocks off the Pan-American Hwy behind the Cruz
del Sur office, this cane-walled restaurant does great seafood and little else. They do a
bang-up ceviche (emphasize spicy for a nice kick in the pants) and we have it on good
word that it's one of the few old town Máncora options using truly fresh catch.

SEAFOOD

Tao $$
(Piura 240; mains S12-35; closed Mon) The aromas of Southeast Asia waft out onto
Av Piura from the interior of this Thai-Chinese hotspot. Travelers flock here for the taste
bud flip - red, yellow, green and panang curries, fusion stir-fries and noodles. All make
good use of local tuna, but pork, beef, chicken and veggies are on the menu as well. It's
upscale, but is always packed with backpackers looking for a culinary upgrade for the
evening.

THAI, CHINESE

Green Eggs and Ham $

BREAKFAST