North Coast - Peru - page 719

the sense of physical isolation forced on you by this unforgiving environment; the self-
sufficiency imposed upon early settlers may explain why they identify as Piuran rather
than Peruvian. Being so far inland, the scorching summer months will have you honing
your radar for air-conditioning, as you seek out chilled venues in which to soothe your
sweltering skin. But the lovely narrow cobbled streets and charismatic colonial houses of
central Piura make up for the fact that there's little else for tourists to do here. Its role as a
hub for the spokes of the northern towns means that you'll probably end up spending
some time here, sighing in relief at the occasional afternoon breeze.
If so, you have dinner to look forward to: Piura is one of the best towns on the coast for
eats.
WELCOME TO PIURADISE
If you want to lose a few days in an authentic Peruvian beach town that foreigners haven't yet embraced, look no
further than Colán, 15km north of Paita, Piura's main port some 50km west of the city. Paita itself is a dusty, crum-
bling colonial port town that looks like it sprouted organically from the desert and has a roguish, Wild West feel to
it, but as soon as Colán comes into view after you've turned off the main highway, you feel that sense of discovery
so often lost in a world of Google Earth and iReports. Not only is Colán home to the oldest colonial church in Peru
(it looks like something out of a Cormac McCarthy novel), this white-sand beach is a trendy summer destination for
the Peruvian jet set - and is practically deserted the rest of the year. The curving bay has a shallow beach that's ex-
cellent for swimming.
Loads of restaurants line the main drag and there are a few great places to plop yourself down for a few days.
Playa Colán Lodge ( 073-31-3974; www.playacolanlodge.com.pe ; 2-/4-/5-person bungalows S178/220/233;
) is the best place to stay. Built from a combination of natural materials it has an upmarket Robinson Crusoe
feel and hosts cute, pastel-colored bungalows along the beach. There are lots of hammocks, shady palm trees, a ten-
nis court, plus a restaurant and bar. The most Máncora-esque spot is Luna Nueva ( 073-66-1761;
www.lunanuevadecolan.com ; r per person sea-view/pool-view incl breakfast S60/50; ) , where you'll find
the best restaurant in town and slightly cramped but well-maintained rooms emptying out onto a shared terrace that
is bashed by high tide twice a day. The budget choice is Hospedaje Frente del Mar ( 073-70-3117; r S50-80) ,
with a good seaside restaurant, a few rustic rooms at the back and two new and nicer rooms on the street side.
There are buses every 15 minutes to Paita from the Terminal Interprovincial Gechisa in Piura (S4, one hour).
Colectivos leave from the main terminal (cnr Zanjon & Loreto) in Paita, near the market, to Colán (S3, 20 minutes)
and Sullana (S6, 1¼ hours).