North Coast - Peru - page 717

The site can be surveyed from a stunning mirador (lookout) atop Cerro Purgatorio (Pur-
gatory Hill). The hill was originally called Cerro la Raya (Stingray Hill), but the name
was changed after the Spaniards tried to convert local people to Christianity by dressing
as demons atop the hill and throwing nonbelievers to their deaths. There is a small but at-
tractive onsite museum (admission free with site ticket; closed Mon) with some inter-
esting tidbits. Guides are available for S30.
From Chiclayo (S2.50), combis depart from Leguia 1306 north of the centre. You can
also catch one from Lambayeque (ask at the Bruning Museum). Guided tours cost around
S50 per person ( Click here ) .

Reserva Ecológica Chaparrí wildlife
( www.chaparri.org ; admission day/overnight S10/30; 7am-5pm) This 34,000-hectare
private reserve, located 75km east of Chiclayo, was established in 2000 by the community
of Santa Catalina and the famous Peruvian wildlife photographer Heinz Plenge. It offers a
completely unique atmosphere for this coast. This is one of the few places in the world
where you can spot the rare spectacled bear in its natural habitat; 25 or so have been ac-
counted for (there are also two in rehabilitation captivity). This area is an ornithologist's
dream, with more than 237 species of birds, including rare white-winged guans, Andean
condors, king vultures and several species of eagle. A large number of threatened species
are also found here, including pumas, collared anteaters and Andean weasels. Nearly a
third of these vertebrates are not found anywhere else in the world. And there's a friendly
fox or two.
You can spend the night in the wonderfully rustic Chaparrí EcoLodge ( 25-5717;
www.chaparrilodge.com ; s/d incl meals & guide S275/550) , where well-appointed adobe
and bamboo bungalows await under the looming mountain of the same name. There's
solar-heated hot water and solar-powered electricity and each room has its own patio with
hammock. It's not fancy, but it's nice enough that you'll be sweetly surprised upon arrival.
The food is of the homey Peruvian comfort variety served on a communal table next to a
gurgling stream. It's pretty ideal if you are a nature lover.
You can visit the reserve on your own as a day trip by catching a bus from Chiclayo's
Terminal de Microbuses Epsel to Chongoyape (S3.50), from where you must contact the
local guide association, Acoturch ( 97-889-6377) , and arrange a required guide and
transport for about S140 for up to three people to tour the reserve. If you can't get through
to the association, pop in to the corner shop Fotografia Carrasco (cnr Chiclayo & Olala)
, where the family can arrange everything as well as set campers up in a very rustic camp-
ground in a beautiful setting above Chongoyape.

RESERVE