North Coast - Peru - page 692

left in their pockets. The little cafe downstairs serves breakfast, there are electric hot-wa-
ter showers, and it moonlights as a surf school. Not a bad deal.

Eating & Drinking
Not surprisingly, Huanchaco has oodles of seafood restaurants, especially near the caballi-
tos de tortora stacked at the north end of the beach. Entertainment is of the reggae and
beer variety - try Mamacocha on Los Pinos. On weekends, trujillanos descend on the
town and things are a little more lively.

Restaurant Big Ben $$
( www.bigbenhuanchaco.com ; Larco 836; mains S17-40; 11:30am-5:30pm;
) This sophisticated seafooder at the far north end of town specializes in lunchtime
ceviches (S39 to S46) and is the best in town for top-notch seafood. Though ceviche is the
main draw, the menu is also heavy on fresh fish, sudados (seafood stews) and prawn
dishes, all of which go down even better on the umbrella-dotted 3rd-floor patio with
views.

PERUVIAN, SEAFOOD

Otra Cosa $
(Larco 921; dishes S6-13; from 8am; ) This Dutch-Peruvian beachside pad is
Huanchaco's requisite traveler's hub, serving up yummy vegetarian victuals like falafel,
crepes, Spanish tortillas, Dutch apple pie and tasty curry-laced burritos (one of which is
almost a breakfast burrito!). Coffee is organic as well. Half of the tips are donated to char-
ity, and local organizations like Skip ( www.skipperu.org ) and MySmallHelp Peru
( www.mysmallhelp.org ) are supported through a small clothing and jewelry shop.

VEGETARIAN

PERUVIAN, SEAFOOD

Mococho $$
( Bolognesi 535; 3-course meal S45; 1-3pm, closed Mon) This tiny place sits se-
cluded in a walled garden where the legend of chef Don Victor is carried on by his widow
and son, Wen. Local fisherman knock on the door here every morning shouting, 'Hey
Chinese! The catch of the day is …' and Wen, the only Chinese-Peruvian restaurateur in
town, serves up just two dishes with whatever's fresh that day: a ceviche appetizer and a
steamed whole fish (filets for solo diners) in a sharply colored, wildly flavorful criollo
sauce. It's not cheap, but it's fresh and excellent, despite the Halls served as an after-meal
mint.

El Caribe $$

PERUVIAN, SEAFOOD