Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(adult S11; 9am-4pm) About 25km inland from Barranca lie the monumental ruins of
the urban settlement of Caral, which confounded Peruvian archaeologists when they
proved to be part of the oldest civilization in all of South America. Before Caral's discov-
ery, the city of Chavín de Huántar near Huaraz, built around 900 BC, held that particular
title. Caral culture arose in the Supe Valley some 4500 to 5000 years ago, making it one of
the world's earliest large cities, alongside those in Mesopotamia, Egypt, India and China.
This ancient culture was a conglomeration of 18 city-states and controlled the three val-
leys of Supe, Pativilca and Fortaleza, with the main seat of government at Caral. At the
site, six stone-built pyramids (most of which have been excavated) were found alongside
amphitheaters, ceremonial rooms, altars, adobe complexes and several sunken circular
plazas. Most of the pyramids have stairways leading to their peaks, where offerings were
once made; the stairs can be climbed for great views of the lush Supe River valley.
The people of Caral-Supe were experts in agriculture, construction, public administra-
tion and making calendars and musical instruments. Evidence of elaborate religious cere-
monies among elites suggests a highly stratified culture in which classes were organized
according to their labor in society; archaeologists at Caral believe that men and women
may have enjoyed considerable equality. Among the many artifacts you'll see at the site
are millennia-old bone flutes and Peru's oldest quipus (a system among Andean cultures
of tying cords in knots to convey information). A large geoglyph - a design carved into
earth - called Chupacigaro attests to the Caral people's sophisticated measurements of the
movements of the stars. Unesco declared the Sacred City of Caral a World Heritage site in
2009.
Considering how few people visit Caral, the site is well set out for visitors. There are
plaques in both Spanish and English illustrating points of interest. Proyecto Especial Ar-
queológico Caral ( www.caralperu.gob.pe ) is in charge here, and its Lima office (
01-205-2500; Av Las Lomas de La Molina 327, Lima 12) has tonnes of information and
also offers informative full-day tours - often including Chupacigaro - on weekends for
S90 per person (see the website for a calendar). Weekends are a great time to visit because
handicrafts and local food are for sale at the site. Lima Tours ( 01-619-6900;
www.limatours.com.pe ; Jr de la Unión 1040, Central Lima) in Lima arranges expensive
private tours to Caral and Paramonga on request. Colectivo (shared transportation) taxis
depart from Calle Berenice Davila in Barranca to the nearby hamlet of Caral fairly regu-
larly for S10 (two hours). Alternatively, elusive private taxis will cost S70 for the return
journey (including waiting time); some charge S20 per hour for the same route.
The road out here is rough and may be impassable during the December to March wet
season. Spanish-speaking local guides are also available at the site for S29 per group (up
to 29 people).
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