Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Peaceful, pretty Huancacalle is best known as the jumping-off point for treks to Vil-
cabamba, but many more hikes from three to 10 days long are possible from here, includ-
ing to Puncuyo, Inca Tambo, Choquequirau and Machu Picchu. The town's biggest build-
ing is
Hostal Manco Sixpac
( 84-6006, 84-005, relative in Cuzco 974-922-484; per
person without bathroom S20)
, run by the Cobos family of local guides. It's the only
lodging with hot water. You can organize mules and guides here.
Manco Inca's huge palace fortress of
Vitcos
(also known as Rosaspata) is an hour's
walk up the hill, and from there you can continue to the amazing, sacred white rock of
Yurac Rumi
. The whole easy-to-follow circuit, which starts just over the bridge at the
end of the road, takes a leisurely three hours, including plenty of time for photos and ad-
miration of both scenery and ruins.
VILCABAMBA
The real 'lost city of the Incas,' Vilcabamba - also known as Espíritu Pampa - is what
Hiram Bingham was looking for when he stumbled on Machu Picchu. The beleaguered
Manco Inca and his followers fled to this jungle retreat after being defeated by the Span-
iards at Ollantaytambo in 1536. The long, low-altitude trek, which takes four to nine days,
is very rugged, with many steep ascents and descents before reaching Vilcabamba, 1000m
above sea level. You can start at either Huancacalle or Kiteni. This area may be insecure,
see the boxed text.
IVOCHOTE & BEYOND
At the time of writing, this area was considered unsafe for travelers, given activity of
guerilla groups and narcotraffickers. Since the government has engaged in an active cam-
paign to curb illicit activity, this may change by the time you read this. Regardless, it is
wise to ask outfitters knowledgeable about the area about current conditions before travel-
ing.
A long eight-hour-plus bus journey from Quillabamba takes you through the oil town of
Kiteni
and on to the more remote
Ivochote
, a small jungle village with a few basic ac-
commodations. This base connects further into Amazonia by river.
The first major landmark past Ivochote is the
Pongo de Mainique
, a steep-walled
canyon carved by cascading waterfalls on the lower Río Urubamba, which marks the bor-
der between Amazonia's high and lowland cloud forest. Prolific bird life here includes
military macaws and quetzals; there are also spider monkeys and many orchid varieties.
Between June and November, boats can be found in Ivochote to take you there and back -
the trip takes the best part of a day. You'll pay anything from S60 to S450 per person;
group size is a big factor.
