Cuzco & the Sacred Valley - Peru - page 548

CUZCO TO THE JUNGLE
There are three overland routes from Cuzco to the jungle. The least-developed, cheapest
and quickest goes northwest from Ollantaytambo over the Abra Málaga Pass, to the sec-
ondary jungle around Quillabamba and into little-visited Ivochote and Pongo de Mainique
beyond.
The other two routes are more popular but are rarely accessed by road. You can get to the
area around Parque Nacional Manu through Paucartambo, Tres Cruces and Shintuya, or to
Puerto Maldonado via Ocongate and Quince Mil. To get deep into these areas, most people
go on organized tours which include light-plane flights in and out, or in some cases, 4WD
road transport.
Some of these roads are muddy, slow and dangerous. Think twice before deciding to
travel overland, and don't even contemplate it in the wettest months (January to April). An
invaluable resource for independent travelers is the Peruvian Jungle Information Packet,
sold by the South American Explorers Club Offline map Google map ( 084-24-5484;
www.saexplorers.org ; Atocsaycuchi 670, Cuzco; 9:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) .
Cuzco to Ivochote
Soon after Ollantaytambo, the road leaves the narrowing Sacred Valley and climbs steeply
over the 4350m Abra Málaga. From here it's a dizzying, scenic, mostly unpaved descent
straight into Amazonia. Dusty Santa María has bus company offices and a couple of very
basic hospedajes and restaurants. It marks the junction where you turn off for Santa Teresa
and the backdoor route to Machu Picchu, or continue down to Quillabamba.
YELLOW RIVER LODGE
A cozy, lazy option on the alternative route to Machu Picchu, this welcoming family homestay ( 63-0209;
www.quellomayo.com ; r per person with half-board S60, camping per person S10) is an organic farm harvesting Ar-
abica bean coffee, chocolate and tropical fruit. Simple rooms have comfortable beds and colorful walls, but you are