Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Iglesia de La Compañía de Jesús
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( Plaza de Armas; admission S15 or with boleto religioso; 9-11:30am & 1-5:30pm)
Built upon the palace of Huayna Cápac, the last Inca to rule an undivided, unconquered
empire, the church was built by the Jesuits in 1571 and reconstructed after the 1650 earth-
quake.
The Jesuits planned to make it the most magnificent of Cuzco's churches. The archbish-
op of Cuzco, however, complained that its splendor should not rival that of the cathedral,
and the squabble grew to a point where Pope Paul III was called upon to arbitrate. His de-
cision was in favor of the cathedral, but by the time word had reached Cuzco, La Com-
pañía de Jesús was just about finished, complete with an incredible baroque facade and
Peru's biggest altar, all crowned by a soaring dome.
Two large canvases near the main door show early marriages in Cuzco and are worth
examining for their wealth of period detail. Local student guides are available to show you
around the church, as well as the grand view from the choir on the 2nd floor, reached via
rickety steps. Tips are gratefully accepted.
CHURCH
STARGAZING WITH THE ANCIENTS
The Incas were the only culture in the world to define constellations of darkness as well as light. Astronomy wasn't
taken lightly: some of Cuzco's main streets are designed to align with the stars at certain times of the year. Under-
standing their interest is a cool way to learn more about the Inca worldview. We recommend a visit to the Cuzco
Planetarium ( www.planetariumcusco.com ; per person around S30) before you head out trekking and watching the
night sky on your own. Think of how clever you'll feel pointing out the Black Llama to your fellow hikers. Reserva-
tions are essential. Price varies with group size and includes pickup and drop-off.
Choco Museo
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( 24-4765; Calle Garcilaso 210; www.chocomuseo.com ; admission S2;
10:30am-6:30pm) The wafting aromas of bubbling chocolate will mesmerize you from
the start. While the museum is frankly lite, the best part of this French-owned enterprise
are the organic chocolate-making workshops (S70 per person). You can also come for fon-
MUSEUM
 
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