Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
little changed for centuries. The flatter areas to the south and west are the commercial
center.
The alley heading away from the northwest side of the Plaza de Armas is Procuradores
(Tax Collectors), nicknamed 'Gringo Alley' for its tourist restaurants, tour agents and oth-
er services. Watch out for predatory touts. Beside the hulking cathedral on the Plaza de
Armas, narrow Calle Triunfo leads steeply uphill toward Plaza San Blas, the heart of
Cuzco's eclectic, artistic
barrio
(neighborhood).
A resurgence of indigenous pride means many streets have been signposted with new
Quechua names, although they are still commonly referred to by their Spanish names. The
most prominent example is Calle Triunfo, which is signposted as Sunturwasi.
At tourist sites, freelance guides speak a varying amount of English or other foreign
languages. For more extensive tours at major sites, such as Qorikancha or the cathedral,
you should always agree to a fair price in advance. Otherwise, a respectable minimum tip
for a short tour is S5 per person in a small group, and a little more for individuals.
Opening hours are erratic and can change for any reason - from Catholic feast days to
the caretaker slipping off for a beer with his mates. A good time to visit Cuzco's well-pre-
served colonial churches is in the early morning (from 6am to 8am), when they are open
for Mass. Officially, they are closed to tourists at these times, but if you go in quietly and
respectfully as a member of the congregation, you can see the church as it should be seen.
Flash photography is not allowed inside churches or museums.
CUZCO & THE SACRED VALLEY IN…
Two Days
Spend one day exploring the city of Cuzco, starting with an early
jugo
(fruit juice) in
Mercado San Pedro
, then
getting cultural with some of the city's many museums.
Museo Quijote
and the
Museo Histórico Regional
are
highly recommended for fine art;
El Museo de Arte Popular
and
Museo Irq'i Yachay
Offline map
Google map
for folksy art; and the
Museo Inka
for preconquest Peruvian artifacts. After lunch, see the most
imposing relics left by the Incas and the Spanish conquistadors, respectively, at
Qorikancha
and
La Catedral
.
At 6:45pm check out the nightly music and dance show at the
Centro Qosqo de Arte Nativo
Offline map
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. The next day, get up early and board a train to
Machu Picchu
Offline map
, Peru's most
renowned ancient site.
Four Days
Follow the Cuzco day of the two-day itinerary. On the second day enjoy a decadent breakfast and explore
Sacsay-
wamán
Offline map
Google map
in the morning. Then bus to ancient, cobbled
Ollantaytambo
and use the
