Lake Titicaca - Peru - page 396

LUQUINA CHICO
This tiny community, 53km east of Puno on the Chucuito Peninsula, is stunning. If your
thought is to relax in a rural community, it also boasts the best standard of homestay ac-
commodation of any community around the lake. The community is making economic
strides thanks to tourism.
Sweeping views of Puno, Juliaca and all the islands of the lake can be taken in from
both the headland's heights or the fertile flats by the lake. In the wet season, a lagoon
forms which attracts migrating wetland birds.
Chullpitas (miniature burial towers) are scattered all around this part of the peninsula.
They are said to house the bodies of gentiles, little people who lived here in ancient times,
before the sun was born and sent them underground.
Homestays (from S20) offer full board (SS28). To get here, catch a combi labeled 'Lu-
quina Chico' (S2.50, 1½ hours) from Puno, or take the ferry to or from Taquile and ask
the driver to drop you off. Ask around about renting kayaks. Edgar Adventures ( Click
here ) can also get you here on a mountain bike, a somewhat grueling but extremely scen-
ic three-hour ride along the peninsula.
JULI
051 / POP 8000
Past Chucuito, the road curves southeast away from the lake and through the commercial
center of Ilave , best known for its livestock market and a lively sense of community
justice, manifested most famously with the lynching of the town mayor in 2004. Ilave is
best avoided in times of civil strife. Sleepy, friendly Juli is a more tourist-friendly stop.
It's called Peru's pequeña Roma (little Rome) on account of its four colonial churches
from the 16th and 17th centuries, which are slowly being restored. Churches are most
likely to be open on Sundays, though opening hours here should not be taken as gospel.
It's worth hammering on the door if one seems closed.
Dating from 1570, the adobe baroque church of San Juan de Letrán (admission S6;
8:30am-5pm Tue-Sun) contains richly framed escuela cuzqueña (Cuzco School) paint-
ings that depict the lives of saints. The imposing 1557 church of Nuestra Señora de la
Asunción (admission S6; 8:30am-5pm Tue-Sun) has an expansive courtyard approach
that may awaken urges to oratory. Its interior is airy, and the pulpit is covered in gold leaf.
The church of Santa Cruz has lost half its roof and remains closed for the foreseeable fu-
ture. The 1560 stone church of San Pedro , on the main plaza, is in the best condition,
with carved ceilings and a marble baptismal font. Mass is celebrated here every Sunday at
8am.