Lake Titicaca - Peru - page 392

cows, pigs, llamas and kids wander by. From January to March, native birds are also a
feature.
Some accommodation recommendations are given below, but it's possible to simply
turn up in town and ask around.
Community leader Félix Turpo ( 951-66-4828; [e-mail])
has a gorgeous garden and the Capachica Peninsula's most spectacular view, overlooking
Isla Taquile. It's also the spot to enjoy a rare hot shower, consisting of a black rubber pipe
on a warm rock (it's recommended to shower during daylight hours).
Magno Cahui ( 951-82-5316; hospedaje [e-mail]) , his wife and their
very cute children have cozy cabins built around his grandfather's stone altar, and another
incredible view of Lake Titicaca.
Local legend Valentín Quispe ( 951-82-1392; [e-mail]) and his wife
Lucila have a charming guesthouse hidden down a stone path, by an enchanting over-
grown cemetery. They also rent out kayaks.
Richard Cahui Flores ( 951-63-7382; hos [e-mail]) works
with lots of families and is the best point of contact for advance bookings as he will set
you up with somebody else if he doesn't have space in his tranquil farmhouse.
CHIFRÓN
If you found Llachón a bit too built-up, tiny somnolent Chifrón (population 24), off the
main road in the northeast corner of the peninsula, is for you. Drowsing in rustling euca-
lypts above a deserted beach, three families offer very basic accommodation for a maxim-
um of 15 people. This is truly a chance to experience another world. Contact Emiliano (
951-91-9252/9652; playachi [e-mail]) to arrange a stay.
CCOTOS & ISLA TICONATA
You can't get much further off the beaten track than Ccotos, two-thirds of the way down
the peninsula's east coast. Nothing ever happens here except the annual Miss Playa (Miss
Beach) competition, in which the donning of bathing suits stirs much controversy. Stay
with the engaging Alfonso Quispe ( 951-85-6462; [e-mail] ) and
his family, right on the edge of the lake. Catch your own fish for breakfast, bird-watch,
hike to the lookout and some overgrown ruins, and relax on the beach, which is arguably
Capachica's most beautiful (but it's a tough call).
A couple of hundred meters off Ccotos, Isla Ticonata is home to a fiercely united com-
munity and some significant mummies, fossils and archaeological sites. Isla Ticonata is
only accessible by organized tour, and is a rare example of Lake Titicaca's local com-
munities calling the shots on tour agencies, to the benefit of all. Tours can be booked in