Lake Titicaca - Peru - page 386

Some islands also have elaborately designed versions of traditional tightly bundled reed
boats on hand and other whimsical reed creations, like archways and even swing sets. Be
prepared to pay for a boat ride or to take photographs.
Intermarriage with the Aymara-speaking indigenous people has seen the demise of the
pure-blooded Uros, who nowadays all speak Aymara. Always a small tribe, the Uros
began their unusual floating existence centuries ago in an effort to isolate themselves from
the aggressive Collas and Incas.
The popularity of the islands has led to aggressive commercialization in some cases.
The most traditional reed islands are located further from Puno through a maze of small
channels, only visited by private boat. Islanders there continue to live in a relatively tradi-
tional fashion and prefer not to be photographed.
Getting to the Uros is easy - there's no need to go with an organized tour. Ferries leave
from the port for Uros (return trip S12) at least once an hour from 6am to 4pm. The
community-owned ferry service visits two islands, on a rotation basis. Ferries to Taquile
and Amantaní can also drop you off in the Uros.
An outstanding option is staying in the reed huts of Isla Khantati with boundless per-
sonality Cristina Suaña ( 951-69-5121, 951-47-2355; [e-mail];
per person full board S165) , an Uros native whose entrepreneurship earned her interna-
tional accolades. Over a number of years, her family have built a number of impeccable
semi-traditional huts (with solar power and outhouses) that occupy half the tiny island,
along with shady decks, cats and the occasional flamingo. The rates include transfers from
Puno, fresh and varied meals, fishing, some cultural explanations, and the pleasure of the
company of the effervescent Cristina. The hyper-relaxed pace means a visit here is not
ideal for those with little time on their hands.
ISLA TAQUILE
Inhabited for thousands of years, Taquile Island (admission S5) , 35km east of Puno, is a
tiny 7-sq-km island with a population of about 2200 people. Taquile's lovely scenery is re-
miniscent of the Mediterranean. In the strong island sunlight, the deep, red-colored soil
contrasts with the intense blue of the lake and the glistening backdrop of Bolivia's snowy
Cordillera Real on the far side of the lake. Several hills boast Inca terracing on their sides
and small ruins on top.
The natural beauty of the island makes it stand out. Quechua-speaking islanders are dis-
tinct from most of the surrounding Aymara-speaking island communities and maintain a
strong sense of group identity. They rarely marry non-Taquile people.
Taquile has a fascinating tradition of handicrafts, and the islanders' creations are made
according to a system of deeply ingrained social customs. Men wear tightly woven