Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The walls of the towers are made from massive coursed blocks reminiscent of Inca
stonework, but are considered to be even more complicated. Carved but unplaced blocks
and a ramp used to raise them are among the site's points of interest, and you can also see
the makeshift quarry. A few of the blocks are decorated, including a well-known carving
of a lizard on one of the
chullpas
closest to the parking lot.
Sillustani is partially encircled by the sparkling Lago Umayo (3890m), which is home
to a wide variety of plants and Andean water birds, plus a small island with vicuñas
(threatened, wild relatives of llamas). Birders take note: this is one of the best sites in the
area.
Tours to Sillustani leave Puno at around 2:30pm daily and cost from S35. The round-
trip takes about 3½ hours and allows you about 1½ hours at the ruins. If you'd prefer
more time at the site, hire a private taxi for S70 with one hour waiting time. To save
money, catch any bus to Juliaca and ask to be let off where the road splits (S3, 25
minutes). From there, occasional
combis
(S2, 20 minutes) go to the ruins.
For longer stays,
Atun Colla
( 365-808, 951-50-2390;
www.turismoatuncolla.com
)
offers
turismo vivencia
(homestays). You can help your host family with farming, hike to
lookouts and lesser-known archaeological sites, visit the tiny museum and eat dirt - this
area is known for its edible
arcilla
(clay). Served up as a sauce on boiled potato, it goes
down surprisingly well.
CUTIMBO
Just over 20km from Puno, this dramatic
site
(admission S6; 8am-5pm)
has an ex-
traordinary position atop a table-topped volcanic hill surrounded by a fertile plain. Its
modest number of well-preserved
chullpas,
built by the Colla, Lupaca and Inca cultures,
come in both square and cylindrical shapes. You can still see the ramps used to build
them. Look closely to find several monkeys, pumas and snakes carved into the structures.
This remote place receives few visitors, which makes it both enticing and potentially
dangerous for independent travelers, especially women. Go in a group and keep an eye
out for muggers. People are known to hide behind rocks at the top of the 2km trail that
leads steeply uphill from the road.
Combis
en route to Laraqueri leave the cemetery by Parque Amista, 1km from the cen-
ter of Puno (S3, one hour). You can't miss the signposted site, which is on the left-hand
side of the road - just ask the driver where to get off. The high cost of a taxi (approxim-
ately S30 one way) may make a taking package tour (S94) from Puno worth it.
