Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SWEET STEAMSHIP DREAMS
The oldest steamship on Lake Titicaca, the famed
Yavari
( 36-9329;
www.yavari.org
; museum admission by
donation; 8am-1pm, 3-5:30pm; B&B per person incl breakfast S99)
has turned from British gunship to a mu-
seum and recommended bed & breakfast, with bunk-bed lodging and attentive service under the stewardship of its
captain. And no, you don't have to be a navy buff reflecting on Titicaca. It's probably the most tranquil spot in
Puno.
Its passage here was not easy. In 1862 the
Yavari
and its sister ship, the
Yapura,
were built in Birmingham and
shipped as parts around Cape Horn to Arica (now northern Chile), moved by train to Tacna, and finally hauled by
mule over the Andes to Puno. The incredible undertaking took six years.
After its assembly, the
Yavari
was launched on Christmas Day 1870. The
Yapura
was later renamed the
BAP
Puno
and became a Peruvian Navy medical ship; it can still be seen in Puno. Both had coal-powered steam engines,
but due to a shortage of coal, they were fuelled with dried llama dung.
After long years of service, the ship was decommissioned by the Peruvian Navy and the hull was left to rust on
the lakeshore. In 1982, Englishwoman Meriel Larken visited the forgotten boat and decided to attempt to save this
piece of Peruvian history. The Yavari Project was formed to buy and restore the vessel.
The
Yavari
is moored behind the Sonesta Posada Hotel del Inca, about 5km from the center of Puno. Its devoted
crew happily gives guided tours. With prior notice, enthusiasts may even be able to see the engine fired up. Now
with a restored engine, the
Yavari
motors across the lake seven times a year - though you will have to find out for
yourself if it's still powered on llama dung.
Eating
Mojsa $$
( 36-3182; Lima 394; mains S18-35; 8am-10pm)
The go-to place for locals and
travelers alike, Mojsa lives up to its name, Aymara for 'delicious.' It has a thoughtful
range of Peruvian and international food, including innovative trout dishes and a design-
your-own salad option. All meals start with fresh bread and a bowl of local olives. In the
evening, crisp brick-oven pizzas are on offer.
PERUVIAN
PERUVIAN
La Casona $$
