Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Toro Muerto Petroglyphs
A fascinating, mystical site in the high desert, Toro Muerto (meaning 'Dead Bull') is
named for the herds of livestock that commonly died here from dehydration as they were
escorted from the mountains to the coast. A barren hillside is scattered with white volcan-
ic boulders carved with stylized people, animals and birds. Archaeologists have documen-
ted more than 5000 such petroglyphs spread over several square kilometers of desert.
Though the cultural origins of this site remain unknown, most archaeologists date the
mysterious drawings to the period of Wari domination, about 1200 years ago. Interpreta-
tions of the drawings vary widely; a guide can fill you in on some of the most common
themes, or you can wander among the boulders yourself and formulate your own elaborate
interpretation of the message these ancient images aim to tell.
To reach the site by public transportation, take a bus to Corire from Arequipa (S10,
three hours). If you don't want to sleep in Corire, take an early bus (they start as early as
4am) and get off at a gas station just past the sign that denotes the beginning of the town
of Corire. From there, you can walk the hot, dusty road about 2km uphill to a checkpoint
where visitors must sign in. Otherwise, continue on into Corire, from where you can catch
a taxi to take you to where the petroglyphs start (from S40 round-trip if the taxi waits). In
Corire, Hostal Willy ( 054-47-2046; Av Progresso; r per person from S35) has basic
accommodations and can provide information on reaching the site. Bring plenty of water,
sunblock and insect repellent (as there are plenty of mosquitoes en route).
Buses return from Corire to Arequipa once an hour, usually leaving at 30 minutes past
the hour. The Toro Muerto petroglyphs can also be visited more conveniently on expens-
ive full-day 4WD tours from Arequipa.
El Valle de los Volcanes
El Valle de los Volcanes is a broad valley, west of the Cañón del Colca and at the foot of
Nevado Coropuna (6613m), famed for its unusual geological features. The valley floor is
carpeted with lava flows from which rise many small (up to 200m high) cinder cones,
some 80 in total, aligned along a major fissure, with each cone formed from a single erup-
tion. Given the lack of erosion of some cones and minimal vegetation on the associated
lava flows, the volcanic activity occurred no more than a few thousand years ago, and
some was likely very recent - historical accounts suggest as recently as the 17th century.
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